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The Anchovy Caper

5.8, Sport,  Avg: 2 from 179 votes
FA: Mark Sprague
New Hampshire > Rumney > Armed & Dangerous Are…


Another nice recent addition to the area. The climbing on the slabby section is technical and thought provoking. The bottom is the crux for most (unless the trees are used for feet).

Start up the face between the trees on sidepulls and crimps till you can gain the lower angle face above. Continue following the bolts while you smear and layback your way past good flakes on the left to the top. This upper part is very fun if you like that kind of stuff.


Around the corner left of Green Mile (5.9) starting between a couple of trees.


7 bolts to bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

nicole starting up anchovy
[Hide Photo] nicole starting up anchovy
Tim having fun.
[Hide Photo] Tim having fun.
KLS getting on this awesome climb!
[Hide Photo] KLS getting on this awesome climb!
the route starts between 2 trees, with the first move being the crux
[Hide Photo] the route starts between 2 trees, with the first move being the crux
eric tops out
[Hide Photo] eric tops out
eric down low
[Hide Photo] eric down low
nicole at the top
[Hide Photo] nicole at the top
the line of anchovie caper
[Hide Photo] the line of anchovie caper

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Unless you're really solid at 5.8 I'd recommend stick clipping this. Moves at the bottom are very thoughtful (and yes, "bouldery" whatever the heck that actually means). Once above those moves and at the second bolt, it still has a couple interesting moves left. It's definitely a worth while climb. Mar 20, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Fun route, glad I decided to get on it. I found the smoothest way to do that last mantle is to get the best left hand on the sloping rail, then palm on the flat edge with your right, then mantle it through. Felt not-awkward, which is impressive for me and mantling. Jul 17, 2012
S. Neoh
[Hide Comment] Two or 2.5 stars for sure though I think Maltese Falcon and Metamorphosis (both nearby) are better at 5.8/5.8+. Nov 24, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] Pretty straightforward at the grade. Nice climb. Plenty of options to get to the first bolt, it's right where it needs to be. Jul 15, 2017