Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Sentry

Changing of the Guard T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Night Shift, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman & Levi Van Buggenum 4/14/08
Page Views: 48 total · 0/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 24, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Follow the lower 1/2 of this crack, which is set in a shallow corner and involves some a series of short cruxy moves separated by rest stances. Small stoppers offer less-than-ideal pro, be careful. Once beneath the bulging upper hand crack, sink in a good #3 camalot and skirt right onto the arete. Follow this for several more cruxy spots to a small ledge. Clip a bolt and crimp up chert past some suspect blocks to the top. An engaging climb that involves much cerebral maneuvering with some questionable pro.

Location

The striking crack on the up-canyon end of the uphill face. The upper portion of the crack has yet to be scaled, but would probably require some trundling to be a safe option.

Protection

RPs, small cams and medium stoppers, #3 camalot, 1 bolt, chain anchor.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
  5.10c
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
  5.10c
Sorry for the lack of photos of either the route or a nice profile pic of the tower. The camera wasn't cooperating that night, plus we were climbing in the last light and on top in the dark due to our after-work start. Will post better shots if I'm up that way again anytime soon. Apr 24, 2008
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
  5.10c
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
  5.10c
So after 7 years, this thing finally saw a presumed 2nd ascent (based on the crispy tat on the anchor from the FA). A big thanks to Clay and Terry for replacing said tat with chains! The consensus bumped the grade up a bit, and it holds strong as a heady little jaunt over questionable small pro. Oct 27, 2015
Clay Stoner
Sheridan, Wy
 
Clay Stoner   Sheridan, Wy
 
I added two additional bolts to this route on 4/27/2018. They completely remove the PG-13 rating in my opinion. One protects a move up a suspect flake( previously protected with RP), and the other protects the traverse and move on the right arĂȘte( preventing the nasty swing onto the #3 around the corner, or doubled up micro RPs). It can now be climbed on a single set of stoppers and cams up to .75 c4.

This is really a fun route in an exciting setting. Plan on climbing it in the evening for a striking view from the summit! Apr 28, 2018

More About The Night Shift

Printer-Friendly