Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 47
FA: Dave Loeks and Claude Suhl (1973)
> i. High E
2019 Peregrine Closure
Wisecrack to Scary Area
Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This is a great climb. It's an excellent choice if you have someone who can easily follow 5.9 but still needs some easier climbs to lead because P1 is only 5.4, but nice climbing.
P1 - Climb the flake or the face just right of the flake to the large ledge and a belay below the 2 overhangs (5.4).
P2 - Climb up to the right side of the first overhang, then step up and left (scary, crux) to a stance below the second overhang. Step left again, then climb a short red/orange corner to another stance and diagonal up and right to the bolted rap station
About 150 right of High Exposure
, at the left side of a 15-foot high, right-facing flake, just left of the Alpine Diversions
crack, and just right of Third Trapps Chimney.
Standard Gunks rack.