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We Don't Do Crack

5.8, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 48 votes
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Lower Animal World
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Description

Same start for Is It Ready...Moe and climb the crack. Gear to a #4 friend.

Location

See above.

Protection

Gear to a #4 friend.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1 - Is It Ready Yet ... Moe.<br>
2 - We Don't Do Crack.<br>
3 - Lazy Day.
[Hide Photo] 1 - Is It Ready Yet ... Moe. 2 - We Don't Do Crack. 3 - Lazy Day.
At the start of the crack.
[Hide Photo] At the start of the crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] This is a fun route, we placed up to a #4 Camalot on lead. Feb 17, 2013
John Alcorn
Eldorado Springs
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Great warm up. Felt way to secure to be 5.9, more like 5.7. Placed a #4 Camalot above the chimney. Worth doing. Mar 12, 2016
Meg A
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] The crux of this route is right at the start, and since it follows the same start as Moe next door (whose crux is the first bolt), I'd say it's a bit more stout than a 5.8 until you reach the first ledge, probably more of a 5.9 for the first 8 feet or so. I'm a pretty solid 5.8 trad leader, and unless I was missing something or a hold was missing from the original comments, I certainly think the start is tougher than an 8.

Be aware, the crack/jams get super slick if it's warm, since they are slathered in chalk. I couldn't get a solid hand jam in (but I have smaller hands too). My hands slipped many times. I ended up whipping twice on my first piece. Fell a third time, and somehow the rope-end biner detached from my alpine draw, and I fell about six feet, hit the deck, then tumbled another 20-ish feet. It wasn't pretty, and I would have fallen about half the distance if I had set a piece on the ground for my belayer (who ended up falling backward and tumbling off of the boulder nearby). Luckily we both had helmets and were okay, all things considered, but food for thought - set a piece for your belayer, even though the ground doesn't look too consequential, momentum is a powerful force. I was lucky that we both walked away with nothing but some huge scrapes and big bruises (wear a helmet, kids).

For the OW I placed two #3s and a #4. Probably overkill, but it had me feeling secure, and if you place right, you can put yourself on TR for the awkward squeeze. After the OW, the climb eases up quite a bit.

A huge shout out to the climbers that helped me clean my wounds, tapped my ankle, and got me back down to my car. Jul 9, 2019
[Hide Comment] If you are generous with the holds on route to either side, this is a 5.7. If you want to contrive a crack/chimney mess by staying inside, it could be a goofy fun 5.9. Apr 9, 2020