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Routes in Layer Cake

Chillax S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cosmic Space Dust Lazers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dude, It's Classic! S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intimidator S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knuckle Dragger S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ledgarithm S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stolen Thunder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Christian Knight and Bret Crapo
Page Views: 14,939 total, 128/month
Shared By: Christian Knight on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 (5.5): Climb straight up a low angle slab with positive edges until you reach a large ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 2 (5.7): Climb up and to the right traversing flakes and edges until you get to a small "gap" in the exposed arete that you are on. Reach across and pull up using big holds and enjoy the temporary exposure before reaching a small ledge with 2 bolts for an anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.8): Climb up towards a steep but subtle prow using big holds and interesting body positioning until you pull a small bulge. Once past this bulge continue up on positive edges and pull a small roof, arriving at a large grassy ledge with 2 bolts for anchors. It is possible to skip the last roof on this pitch and traverse left to a ledge with with ring anchors and an exposed path to the walk off.

After pitch three it is possible to walk off to the north and then back down the gully.

Additional pitches established some time after the first three await above:

The added six pitches work their way up as high as the rock goes. The first four additional pitches take you up to a high ridge-line/steep meadow, and then an additional pinnacle finishes the route off with two more pitches.

Pitch 4 (5.7): Climb up and to the right, traversing blocky holds on a slightly overhanging bulge and ending on a spacious ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 5 (5.7): Climb straight off of the belay and tackle a strenuous mantle, then move up and left over nice edges to finish at a ledge with ring anchors

Pitch 6: (5.7) Climb up into a mildly overhanging corner and pull over the steep corner. Continue up slabby terrain to a ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 7 (5.4): Very short scramble up to a tiny wall with a single bolt+hanger. Kind of a mini-pitch. Walk along the ridge for awhile and then scramble to the base of the next wall.

Pitch 8 (5.7): Climb up a low angle exposed arete with an occasional bulge until you reach a small pedestal ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 9 (5.10): Climb past several small holds directly off the belay working up to a flake and bigger holds slightly left. Continue up through steep exposed bulges with smaller holds until you arrive on some ledges with ring anchors just below the summit.

Walking off to the NW towards the saddle of Trilogy Buttress and down to the West is the easiest way off of the route. However, you can rappel the entire route if you have a 70m rope.

Admin note: This description is an amalgamation of the original description of this route by Christian Knight and the description from an entry titled Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (extension) by Jason MT. The later entry was merged with this entry.

Also note that the consensus rating will be off until many more climbers put in their ratings. The ratings from the extension entry did not make it in the merge.

Location

Start climbing the slab on the upper tier about 15 feet right of Ledgarithm.

Descent

Walk off the top north (recommended) or rappel off the top down to Ledgarithm and continue down that route.

Protection

12 Quickdraws and a few slings will help with rope drag.
Found a small Klean Kanteen green flask full of coffee at the base of the climb. I dumped out the coffee so you cant have that, but if the flask is yours, I cleaned it and can get it back to you Sep 20, 2017
Roman Smart  
 
A friend of mine found some shoes at the base of this climb about two weeks ago that look essentially brand new. If anyone lost them, let me know. Aug 1, 2017
Will Bradford
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
Will Bradford   Winston-Salem, North Carolina
 
Did this route today and honestly would not recommend it to anyone. Chossy rock, repetitive moves, a hellish walk-off (so eroded it was really more of a slide off). Great views, about twice as many bolts as necessary, so at least it was very safe. Some trail maintenance and establishment of switchbacking routes (or rap routes) down the face would be mandatory for me to consider getting on something else on this wall. May 9, 2017
Sounds like the route has cleaned up a bit. We just did it today and loose rock wasn't too much of an issue. The last 2 were a little dirtier than the rest but again no problems. It seems to me that pitches 5-6 had move sequences as hard as 5.9 or even 5.9+, though the rest of the climbing was fairly easy and straightforward. It's possible key holds broke off or I was just off-route a little, though we followed the bolts pretty closely. Last pitch was mostly 5.10a/b in my book, but with some short easier sections. Definitely a fun route overall. May 8, 2017
Steven Jones  
 
Did all 9 pitches yesterday. Car-to-car was about 6 hours taking it pretty slow and taking breaks for pictures/food/what not. Very fun route. I have to agree with other posters that some of the higher pitches can get pretty chossy, but overall a really high quality climb all things considered. Some thoughts:

Pitches 1-3: Possibly the cleanest pitches on the route. Nothing too shocking here. Pitch 3 might be the hardest of the three, but it's still only a 5.7 if you ask me.

Pitch 4: Once you top out pitch three, you'll walk along the ridge for a bit. There are a pair of bolts for belaying a little ways up a small gully-looking area. Pretty easy pitch, but it does get slightly overhung for a few moves in the middle.

Pitch 5: The start is hard compared to the rest of this climb. Once you pass the bulge it gets much easier.

Pitch 6: This pitch is also relatively hard, but if you're adventurous you can scramble around the 2 harder bits to the left. It means a pretty big runout as you skip a bolt or two, but it's on class 4 stuff, so if you don't want to pull the harder moves, it's an option.

Pitch 7: Yawn. Really dont even have to belay for this pitch. It's only about 20 feet and it's 5.3 or 5.4.

Pitch 8: There is a light streak on the base of the next wall that sort of slopes down to the left (look at the topo picture). This pitch starts at the base of it. Aside from the choss and fear of things breaking, I think this was my favorite pitch on the climb. Pretty easy with a couple fun moves and good holds if you find them/trust them.

Pitch 9: Easily the hardest pitch. The first few bolts have you pull on a crimp or two to get to a nice ledge to stand on, then the crux is getting up to the second bolt after that ledge. Like pitch 6, you can scramble around this bit to the left if you want to and are okay with a bit of a runout. Once you pass the second bolt after the landing it's smooth sailing to the summit.

After you top out, the easiest way down is to walk off. Walk along the ridge to the north and over the saddle of Trilogy Buttress (the huge triangular face the you've been noticing to the NW of you this whole time. Once you cross that, you'll see a relatively well established trail that leads down the west face of the mountain and spits you out near the bridge you pass on your way into the canyon. Took us about 30 minutes. Could also rap down the way you came (eew) or there is another pair of rap anchors of the south side of the summit that I assume lead down the east face to the scree field on that side. Apr 23, 2017
My partner and I climbed the first 6 pitches. It was quite the adventure!! If your a short climber or not comfortable with climbing hard 9s, I would recommend only the first three pitches.

Disclaimer: I am 5'6", this was my second multipitch lead ever.. but relatively experienced climber

The first and second pitch were on par and fun, the third was also, but tricky to locate thanks to all the bolts everywhere. If your standing atop the ledge after the second pitch, pitch 3 is the route left of the left corner.

Pitch 4 could potentially be hard to find, but after reading all the comments, we found it. It was short and mossy, kinda awkward, I would call it a 7+ or 8.
Pitch 5 was very hard considering it's supposed rating is 5.7. Height would definitely help on this one. The moves from the 1st bolt to the second felt 9+ to me. Not to mention potential ground fall since there was no way I could reach the clip before the hard moves. There is a sort-of bulge to move up and over with small slopey holds that don't help much unless you are a 5.10+ lead climber and difficult footing. I ended up reaching up as high as possible, barely able to grab a nice but sharp side-pull far right of the bolt and was then able to mantle and move back left towards the second bolt, unable to get a clipping stance until it was at my knees. Then up a little higher was a roof that, again, felt 9 ish to me. This route was really fun, but I was not expecting such a challenge!
Pitch 6 was not fun to me! The beginning, if you stay in the bolt line, was very awkward, thin, and sharp holds! Again, felt 9 ish to me. Climbing right of the bolts was easier but still awkward. Then onto a roof that was actually kind of fun but the tricky bulge before the roof and the roof itself felt like 9+ moves to me. After the roof, it was easy, lots of loose stuff though!

We decided to head down after the 6th pitch, though we did leave our anchor and scrambled up to scope out the 7th. There is quite a large ledge here and the view of the valley and canyon was AMAZING and so rewarding! We decided to rap off the whole thing. I would recommend walking off at any point if possible... our rope got stuck in a crack. Luckily we were able to get it out after some ascending. (multi-pitch amateur mistake) Oct 14, 2016
Anyone happen to come across a pair of white Scarpas (size 42 EU) at the base of this climb around July 14 or so? If so, much obliged, my number is 435-503-1462. Jul 18, 2016
Mitch Clark  
 
I enjoyed this climb, except for the last pitch. We simulclimbed until pitch 9. That pitch was pretty chossy through the lighter colored section, and a lot of holds were breaking. It might have been because of the wet month we've been having, or because this route doesn't see a lot of traffic, but it definitely made the climb a lot less enjoyable. May 18, 2016
Erik Yde
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Erik Yde   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Climbed all 9 pitches yesterday. Fun easy climbing with the most difficult and rewarding pitch being the last which I would say is 5.9+

Pitch 6 (or was it 5?) had an ungodly amount of loose rock right before the chains making it hard to pull the tiny roof. Rest of the pitches were very clean though. Apr 26, 2016
Scott Stevenson
SLC, Utah
  5.10a
Scott Stevenson   SLC, Utah
  5.10a
Just a heads up for combining pitches:

We combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 70, but used double length slings for almost every bolt.
We combined pitches 4 and 5 as well. Runners on all of pitch 4 and most of pitch 5 except for the crux.
We combined 6 and 7 too which are both pretty short. Used a few runners. Can sling a block with the single bolt at the top of pitch 7 as well.

Basically did it as 6 pitches and it worked pretty well. Nov 23, 2015
Danny Cardoza
Provo, UT
 
Danny Cardoza   Provo, UT
 
Cleanest chossy route I've climbed--at least the first 3 pitches. They are climbed so frequently that they're pretty clean. Sure we knocked free some little scree, but nothing heinous. While I probably wouldn't climb this again unless I was taking someone new, it was fun and if you're an RC regular is definitely one you should tick off your list. Oct 10, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Wanting to move fast I linked pitches 2 and 3 w/ a 70, skipping a bunch of bolts on easy terrain and putting long, extended slings on all the bolts I did clip on P3. No rope drag. Aug 21, 2014
Not a good route at all. Sorry to bash on this but the rock is very loose, bolts are placed all over the place, rock drag is horrible, anchor placements are not good. I do not recommend this route at all for the average climber. I only suggest perhaps as a first Multi pitch climb this would be a good introduction but other than that do not do it. Plus the walk down is not good at all May 17, 2014
Can this route be done with a 60m rope? Mar 16, 2014
I've been up this a couple of times. The toughest part about it is that you can't fully trust the holds. I had several break off on me.

I think the ratings are exaggerated.

I'd go with this:

p4 = 5.7
p5 = 5.8
p6 = 5.8
p7 = 5.0
p8 = 5.7
p9 = 5.9+ (was a tough 5.9, but didn't quite feel like a 5.10)

P8 & 9 where both very very chossy, and the holds were not trustworthy even more so than the other pitches. Over all it is a fun "adventure" type climb. Aug 21, 2013
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.7
Climbed the route yesterday - fantastic! Thanks to the FA for putting this route up, I enjoyed it emmensely - very adventurous!

I thought p9 was the scariest as far as crumbly rock goes.

All anchors were in good shape, there was only one anchor station that consisted of only hangers - all the others had quicklinks and/or large, oversized rappel rings.

p8 and p9 won't ever 'clean' up, the rock is simply too fractured and will continue to fracture with each freeze/thaw cycle. Just expect them to be tenuous and move carefully.

We walked off the west flank of Squaw, rappelling the route would be sketchy - simply too much potential to pull rocks down on your party each time you pull the rope. I'll pass on that prospect. Took 40 minutes to hike down to the parking lot, stopping occassionally to snap a handful of photos.

I pretty much agree with Tristan's pitch ratings, though I could feel good about rating p9 5.10-. I definitely don't think there were any .10b moves on any of the pitches.

The bolts on p8 were hard for me to pick out, I ended up skipping 2-3 of them just thinking it was runout. If you are on p8 considering a scary runout, look around more closely, move up a bit, there will be another bolt somewhere. Jul 22, 2013
Dashclimbsrocks
Orem, UT
 
Dashclimbsrocks   Orem, UT
 
Went back and did all of the extension this morning. Not impressed with the rock quality of the final two pitches. Final two pitches are still VERY dirty and adds a level of sketch to the person leading. 5.10a or b is probably an accurate grade for the final pitch. Pitch 4 is by far the worst of the whole line. It's incredibly dirty!

The last time I got on it (last month) there were two pitches (belay anchors for pitch 3 and 5) that were missing quick-links and had to leave bail biners to rap off on. They had quick links on them today. So thank you to whoever added those to the hangers.

This route is worth doing at least once, but the quality of the rock and the amount of effort to keep rock from rolling off ledges get a bit annoying. Jul 15, 2013
Jason MT
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jason MT   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I agree, choss doesn't make a route technically harder, but it does make it feel harder, especially if someone jumps on it who is climbing near the limit (my girlfriend is a 5.9 climber and had a heck of a time working through the last pitch.) My ratings are based on the idea that they will go down over time as the route cleans up, and I tried to keep them in line with rumors I had heard/read regarding difficulty. I'm certainly willing to reassess, though... I just wanted to throw the route up here since there was no solid beta for it on MP yet.

Cheers, and thanks for the input. Sep 13, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.8
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.8
I climbed the full 9 pitches today and noticed that all of the pitch ratings listed here are considerably higher than what they felt like to me. Choss doesn't make a route technically harder... Here are my rating suggestions, plus bolt count:

Pitch 4 - 5.7 (6 bolts)
Pitch 5 - 5.8 (7 bolts)
Pitch 6 - 5.8 (8 bolts)
Pitch 7 - 4th class (1 bolt)
Pitch 8 - 5.6/5.7 (7 bolts)
Pitch 9 - 5.9 (10 bolts)

I did skip a bolt unintentionally on a couple pitches, so the bolt count might be off by 1. The last one might be 5.10a; it definitely is significantly harder and more sustained than the others.

Most of the pitches are short (60-80 feet, though pitches 2, 3, and 9 are longer), but the route does traverse a lot and go over a lot of ledges and stuff. When I do the route again, I don't think I'll combine any pitches.

I had a great time on this thing. I'd done the bottom three pitches probably 4 or 5 times, but going all the way to the top was a lot of fun. Rock Canyon has some stellar quartzite and limestone, but the routes over here on this side of the canyon are not on any of the good stuff. That's what makes these bolted multi-pitch routes so awesome; they're moderately graded, well bolted (not runout at all), and have an easy 10 minute approach, but the suspect rock gives them a real quality of adventure.

We walked off. Head east and then north. I went down the Trilogy Gully while my partner went further north around the Training Camp area. Either way takes only about half an hour. Rappelling this route would suck because of the loose stuff.

Finally, the route is west-facing and in the shade all morning. It was 94 degrees today but I was comfortable while climbing. Jun 22, 2012
Jason MT
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jason MT   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I climbed all 9 pitches today and the new pitches are excellent. They are substantially harder than the first 3 so I wouldn't recommend them for 5.7/5.8 leaders.

To provide more info, I created a new route just for the extension. If anyone has anything to add/correct, or if the person who set the route wants this added into the CSDL route description, just let me know. May 21, 2012
Michael Davidson
San Diego, CA
Michael Davidson   San Diego, CA
Did the first six pitches this afternoon (12:30-3:15PM). At the top of the third pitch go left and then straight up a small meadow to two awkwardly high bolts that make up the anchor for the 4th pitch.

I heartily recommend every pitch except the 4th which, though short, is moss covered choss. The fourth and fifth are probably the hardest at 5.8 and 5.9, respectively. From the top of the sixth pitch the walk off is long, involving a significant northward traverse and climb to reach the ridge above trilogy buttress. From there you can descend the front face of squaw to the car or scree surf toward the base of this route. Instead, I recommend rappelling to the top of the third pitch, and walking off to the north per the original route's instruction.

I did not explore the remaining ~200 foot pinnacle for more bolts. Sep 16, 2011
Nathaniel Holt
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nathaniel Holt   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
This route is way fun! It is super awesome that it has been added to. Today I climbed 3 of the new pitches that have been added (didnt have time for the rest) all very fun. It was a bit dirty, so go climb it so it can get cleaned up some ;-)! One of my favorite routes and cant wait to finish the whole thing! Sep 5, 2011
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
I did this route about a year ago and then repeated it today to find that the rock has been cleaned considerably. Really fun climb now. Jul 8, 2011
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Ask Christian at Mountainworks. Jun 22, 2011
Parker Alec Cross
Provo, UT
  5.7
Parker Alec Cross   Provo, UT
  5.7
What's the story with the bolts leading up above the last pitch? I'm hearing rumors that this route is extended into 9 pitches? Just rumors, but I'd be interested in getting that beta, and I don't want to wait six more years for the Rock Canyon guide book to come out... Jun 22, 2011
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.8
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.8
Did this route again last night and boy has it cleaned up in the 3 years since I did it last! This might be my favorite of the multi pitch routes over here now. The second and third pitches are just plain fun; they're never too hard and when it gets steep, it also gets super juggy. May 14, 2011
Aaron Child  
 
Darren Knezek and I did this in May 2008 and split the last pitch into two pitches. Great route. Love the exposure. Aug 15, 2008
Adam Wilson
Provo, UT
Adam Wilson   Provo, UT
While I agree tat Cosmic Space Dust Lazers is not a gimme at the grade, I appreciated that adventure. The rock is a little crumbly, though no more than the classic lines on trilogy (Lord of the slings third pitch may now be an exception to that) and is reminiscent of the classic quartzite "down, not out" principle. There are no runouts, and all the anchors are bomber, so you don't have the pucker factor you get on climbs like Jungle Rot Slot or Banana Dreams.

I especially enjoyed that traverse at the beginning of pitch 2, (old pitch 1) which was not really hard, but awkward enough to keep things interesting. Also, there are many sections of steep climbing, of the sort you don't get on 5.8, but can exist because of the huge jugs everywhere. Fun and different moves from start to finish.

Like almost all Rock Canyon multi-pitch climbs, walking off is a smart idea. The walk of is easy and straightforward, and takes less time than rappelling. Aug 7, 2008
Not a beginners route!
I grabbed several large holds right next to bolts and they completely fell apart in my hands. Too much loose rock above other popular climbs. We planned to do the rap off but again there were large death blocks right on the lip and we decided that we didn't want to risk it so we walked off.
I WILL say that you do achieve a pretty cool position for such a moderate route.And if you are experienced with loose climbs you can have a very enjoyable experience. Aug 7, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.8
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.8
Did this route this morning in 3 pitches. Third pitch was the best, with the most difficult and interesting climbing. I don't think that this is a good route for beginners or people not comfortable leading harder than 5.8. There are a ton of large, loose, crumbly holds that if just pulled on the wrong way will come off. Be very careful when climbing this route if there are people on the routes below you.

Overall, I enjoyed this route and I'm glad I did it, but feel that Snatch and even Ledgorithm are better routes with less choss. Aug 5, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I did this today in two pitches. I took only sport draws and the rope drag was truly heinous as I started up the section above the belay ledge mentioned by Christian in the description. So much so that I didn't think I could make it to the top. I downclimbed a bit and belayed my partner up from the anchor mentioned by Christian, then continued to the top. A few longer runners at strategic bolts would no doubt help.

Christian shows a good eye on this route; fun, lots of easy climbing with a few short sections of somewhat harder moves. There is one bit that can't be more than 5.5 because of the huge handholds, but it is exposed and a tiny bit overhung and so is really a blast.

We got off in three rappels. The walk off is probably faster but my partner for the day hates walk offs. Apr 26, 2008