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Routes in Warrior Wall & Last Chance Wall

Armchair Warrior T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breezy Does It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dike Brigade S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dog Day Afternoon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hakuna Matata T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Last Chance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Savor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Secret Weapon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Slim Twist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Top Sider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water into Wine T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Collins, 05
Page Views: 76 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jer Collins on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

This route has more history than Cher and Meatloaf!

No, not really; but it sure has given me a couple stories to tell.

Here's one:
The first day I went to do this it was an early morning and I was alone. I started from the ground, rope soloing. The wind was HOWLING. I am not good on measuring wind speed, but surely it was over 300 miles an hour. Maybe more.

Up through the 5.8 section of good handcrack and jugs to the obvious break, and the blank headwall. I placed a bolt, and lightened the load. I tried to free to the next break and took a number of wingers. Finally, I figured out the sequence, using a key crimp and nailed the crux. I climbed above it a little bit and placed a hook, then pulled up my drill. After another bolt, I pulled up rope to clip in. And then...
POP GOES THE WEASEL! with all my slack out to clip and my drill over my shoulder I took the big ride.

I screamed like a little girl.
No, literally, it was full falsetto, and a little nasaly.

The key crimp?

Gone.

Good luck.

Location

Start on the low angle, winding crack, 30 feet left of "Last Chance" then pull onto blank face, and then to steep "crack" at the top. Belay/Rap at a tree

Protection

standard + two bolts

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