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Routes in Lower Tier

Against The Grain T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Luck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilateral symmetry T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Bookend, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Erica's Ass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fresh Meat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Konto's Sport Route S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Lorax, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Mind the 'Mudgeon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Normandy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oompa Loompa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paradox S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peachy Canoodle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rented Mule S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Staircase S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,136 total, 18/month
Shared By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Easy steps lead to mental cruxes. either stem right and hug the outside for a few moves or stay in the corner

Location

Left bookend

Protection

Trad

Photos

- No Photos -
TSluiter
Holland, VT
 
TSluiter   Holland, VT
 
Newly installed bolts on top, have to rap to them to get there safely to set up TR. Awesome climb, lots of stemming. Pro is solid, stay small. Loose block at the top, last hold. Probably gonna stay as it's wedged in. Oct 9, 2015
Nate K
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Nate K   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
The jug flake in the middle of this route has gotten significantly looser and scarier in recent years. and its got a wasp nest in it at the bottom. also its 5.7, not 5.5 and the pro is good all the way up Aug 6, 2014
Svea Closser
  5.7+
Svea Closser  
  5.7+
protection is fine for this beginning leader Sep 9, 2012
See the new Peckham guidebook. This is "The 5.7 Corner". It protects very well with a standard rack. The pin mentioned above is not especially useful as lead pro, but does serve as a helpful directional if top roping from the trees. Without it, a climber falling in the crux section can pendulum back in to the left wall of the corner. Aug 31, 2012
Gear is a little spacey if you don't bring anything small, but the runouts are exciting. Def not a 5.5- I don't know where that grade came from. Solid 5.7, if not soft 5.8. Aug 30, 2012
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
Is this referring the left "5.7" corner? I found the protection on the climb to be adequate and there is an old piton out to the right to protect the crux (should you choose not to go straight up the corner). In my opinion the climb is a solid 5.7, as the other name implies. Sep 20, 2011
Ryan A. Williams
Burlington, VT
  5.6
Ryan A. Williams   Burlington, VT
  5.6
I've heard of this climb being referred to as one of (the left) the "5.7 Corners". I was surprised to see it graded as both 5.5 and PG13. In my opinion the protection is great and it's at least 5.6. Great stances the whole way but some fun moves in between. Aug 26, 2011