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Routes in Upper Tier - Right End

Bungasana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Dr. Dias T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Featherweight Champion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippie With a Hand Grenade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mal Bouche T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,566 total, 39/month
Shared By: roddack on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Great route with a variety of moves.

Location

follow trail to big gully, ascend the gully and go right until end of ledge. Alternate climb Erica's Ass Crack (5.6), or the Bookend (5.5) and go right at ledge.

Protection

Normal VT trad rack

Photos

New bolt anchor at the top has been installed. Sep 16, 2012
mikeinvt  
 
Climbed this yesterday, one of the anchor bolts is completely gone. I left a cordalette and locker on the dying tree right above the bolt but I don't suspect it will be there for long. Jun 24, 2012
Derek Doucet
  5.8-
Derek Doucet  
  5.8-
TRing this route would be inconvenient. The approach to the top from below the Rose Crack, then up to the right and then back left and down a steep and exposed step to gain the anchors would be involved, and might very possibly involve a rappel. Add to this the fact that a single 60m rope would just barely reach the ledge, and then only at the far right end, which is narrow and somewhat sloping (an anchor for the belayer can be built with small wires and would be a prudent step), and it seems like way more trouble than it's worth. If you want to TR in this grade range at Upper West, the two 5.7 corners on the lower tier beneath Chockstone, and often used as a first pitch linked in to it, are much better options. Feb 1, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.7+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.7+
TRing Captain's Crack would be (in my opinion) a pretty hard endeavor. First, you'd have to 'shwack your way to the top of the cliff, scramble down to the bolted anchor, then rap down (all the while trying to keep yourself out of the tree) to the belay ledge, which is narrow and ends abruptly at the base of the route. Jan 23, 2011
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
Can this be toproped? Jan 14, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.8-
Derek Doucet  
  5.8-
The original name was Ledangier, though it is usually referred to as Chockstone these days, and ocassionally as Captain's Crack. The route is certainly not PG13, as there is abundant good gear if the leader keeps her/his eyes open and is reasonably proficient at placing pro. Generally considered 5.8, though 5.7+ seems fair enough. FA: John Bouchard, 1974. Oct 1, 2010
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This is one of the best protected climbs ever. You can sew it up if you want. Excellent and hard for the grade. Definitely not PG-13. May 17, 2010
Dan Smith  
 
Not really Pg-13. more Pg or even G if you look for good placements. Have at least 1 #3 and 2 #2 and #1 Cams. Many bomber nut placements. Sep 7, 2008