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Routes in Sabbatical Wall

Baby Fat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Big V, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bon Voyage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Broken Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coat Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
De-Birth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Decreation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dust Lung T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Fun T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genetics T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Immaculate Conception T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Induced Labor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Minute Man T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Miscarriage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mother T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Reincarnation T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sabbatical 36 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Shotgun Wedding T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sperm Bank T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stillborn T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Toss, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown D.F. Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Womb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Workin' Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: D.F. (?)
Page Views: 726 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A short route with a short crux. This climb ascends a few moves up to a shelf, then jams loose hands to step up onto a square flat stance near the crack, the route's crux. Distinct rest stances are key opportunities for protection before the crux and other opportunities are from pretty good stances.
An excellent beginner lead. A neophyte leader would never be far from the ground, protection, or a watchful belayer.

Location

About 20 meters right of Sabbatical there is an obvious crack and corner system with a ~3" crack and a right-facing corner crux. A plaque at the base reads: "D.F. 5.10" but the route is easier than 5.10.

Protection

A few 2.3-3.5" cams are the meat of it. More may be desired, but since the whole route can be seen from the ground, there is no problem determining what gear any individual might need.

Photos

slim

  5.8
slim    
  5.8
a good candidate for a first desert lead as the climbing is very easy, there are good stances, it is short, and the rock is generally pretty good. good anchor at the top. Apr 5, 2011
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
this route went up in the fall of 04 . my son wanted to help put up a short warm up. the name and grade were up in the air cause i am old and he is young. he was small at the time. and i am still fat and old. more like 5.9? Aug 25, 2010
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Agree with Tony - a good route for beginning Indian Creek leaders. Short, moderate, and easily protected. Apr 23, 2008