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Routes in Aguja Frey

Diedro de Jim (5) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Los Museos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Lost Fingers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfil del Mujer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sifuentes Weber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sifuentes-Monti T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,003 total, 34/month
Shared By: colin tuck on Apr 20, 2008
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

First pitch starts near the base of the Aguja Frey apron up an easy right facing dihedral to a belay below a steep hand crack. The long second pitch heads heads up the steep hand crack, up a right facing dihedral to where the crack splits. Take the left fork for the 5.9- variation. Follow crack to a massive hanging flake, and belay a few meters up the left side of the flake. Third pitch goes up a steep finger crack to the roof, traverses right below the roof (airy) and descends slightly to bolted belay. The fourth pitch goes straight up the awesome crack above with lots of face holds to a final fun pull at the top.

As per Mike (comment below): The route described is actually a link-up of 3 routes, and is called the Sifuentes/Weber/Monte link-up, or something like that. THe actual Sifuentes Weber stays left of the roof on the 3rd pitch and continues to the summit from there. The last pitch of the link-up is the Sifuentes-Monte route. See the guidebooks in Refugio El Frey for more detailed information.

Location

From the refugio there is a really obvious crack heading straight up the middle of Aguja Frey. This is the route.

Protection

We climbed with one set of nuts, and a single set of cams through BD 3.5.
Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
 
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
 
We climbed a bunch of 5.9 (5+) in Frey and the 2nd pitch crux is definitely harder and less secure for several moves than anything else we did. Seems way sandbagged to me, but maybe we didn't do the 5.9- variation? Not sure how else we could have gone. Jan 11, 2017
Mike A. Lewis
Estes Park, CO
  5.10a
Mike A. Lewis   Estes Park, CO
  5.10a
The route described is actually a link-up of 3 routes, and is called the Sifuentes/Weber/Monte link-up, or something like that. THe actual Sifuentes Weber stays left of the roof on the 3rd pitch and continues to the summit from there. The last pitch of the link-up is the Sifuentes-Monte route. See the guidebooks in Refugio El Frey for more detailed information. Amazing route! Jan 5, 2014
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
There are so many fixed pins that we climbed this stellar route with 15 QDs and a set of nuts. Oct 24, 2009
This bad-weather standby bears an uncanny resemblance to Hair City/West Butt of the Bastille, I kinda think. Apr 21, 2008
EMT
 
EMT  
 
Great climb to get used to the area. Short approach too! Apr 20, 2008