Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,964 total · 36/month
Shared By: colin tuck on Apr 20, 2008
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description

First pitch starts near the base of the Aguja Frey apron up an easy right facing dihedral to a belay below a steep hand crack. The long second pitch heads heads up the steep hand crack, up a right facing dihedral to where the crack splits. Take the left fork for the 5.9- variation. Follow crack to a massive hanging flake, and belay a few meters up the left side of the flake. Third pitch goes up a steep finger crack to the roof, traverses right below the roof (airy) and descends slightly to bolted belay. The fourth pitch goes straight up the awesome crack above with lots of face holds to a final fun pull at the top.

As per Mike (comment below): The route described is actually a link-up of 3 routes, and is called the Sifuentes/Weber/Monte link-up, or something like that. THe actual Sifuentes Weber stays left of the roof on the 3rd pitch and continues to the summit from there. The last pitch of the link-up is the Sifuentes-Monte route. See the guidebooks in Refugio El Frey for more detailed information.

Location

From the refugio there is a really obvious crack heading straight up the middle of Aguja Frey. This is the route.

Protection

We climbed with one set of nuts, and a single set of cams through BD 3.5.

Photos