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Ian's Arete

5.10a, Sport,  Avg: 1.9 from 118 votes
FA: Ian & Brad White 10/01
New Hampshire > Rumney > Kennel Wall

Description

This route climbs the moderate face climbing start of Bad Dog Crack (5.7) then climbs the arete and face to the right of that route.

A little squeezed in in my opinion seeing as though it shares holds with Bad Dog but it does contain some fun climbing on its independent sections.

Climb the face below the cracked corner and when it is possible break right on to the arete. Climb interesting and fun balancy moves up the arete till it gets too thin to continue at 5.10. Break back left out to the face and climb quartz edges up to the chains.

Location

the bolt line right of the cracked corner of Bad Dog Crack (5.7)...

Protection

About 7 bolts and a pin i think it was...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rope hanging on Ian's Arete
[Hide Photo] Rope hanging on Ian's Arete
the route climbs the face and arete left of the gully with the chock stone.
[Hide Photo] the route climbs the face and arete left of the gully with the chock stone.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] depending on the sequence and when you traverse right on the face the route feels a little bit easier than .10b to me. I'm not good at grades though but I would say 5.9+ or .10a. Apr 21, 2008
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] i changed it to 5.10a... i couldnt really decide... but that sounds fine... i wasnt crazy about the route so i didnt pay much attention to the grade... thanks for your vote... Apr 22, 2008
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Cool sounds good. Yeah this route is not as good as some of the others at the crag, though it's not bad for a warm up for me. I voted for 5.10a because it feels easier than dog star which is also much more fun. Apr 23, 2008
Nick Mazzaglia
Beverly, MA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Climbed it this past Saturday, couldn't find it in the book, so checked here. Could be a 10a. A little balancy, but we found it fun and probably more challenging than a 9. My 2 cents. Sep 27, 2009
S. Neoh
[Hide Comment] More fun (varied climbing) and longer than it looks from the ground.
9+ or 10a seems to be the right grade to me (easier than Dog Star). Jun 19, 2010
Ian White
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] This FA was actually done by me when I was 10, with my Dad, Brad White. We graded it 10a. Glad some of you guys have enjoyed it and it sounds like 10a is what people agree to be right. Happy Climbing everyone! Jun 20, 2018
Eric Zhang
Providence, RI
[Hide Comment] Climbing into the arete asap is much more fun, though a bit tough for 10a. It's possible to stay in the dihedral without straying from the bolt line, but if you feel up to it try the arete. Jul 31, 2019
Mike Gagnon
Plymouth, NH
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Fun warmup for the harder routes in the area Jul 1, 2021
Christopher Germain
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Pretty aggressive for a 10a at the top, but I still really enjoyed the climb! Apr 23, 2022