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Creatures from the Black Saloon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
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Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jon Butler, Cameroonie Burns, Jesse Harvey, November, 1996
Page Views: 2,487 total · 20/month
Shared By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) on Apr 18, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is from memory:
The route starts on the south side of the tower and climbs a loosely defined crack system to a stance with anchors. The second and third pitches go up a crack/corner system to another stance. The last pitch is a pretty airy bolt ladder up the east side to a crack system to another ladder.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A pretty decent selection of cams (include some big ones) and a few pins (blades, babies).

Photos

We approached from the overlook on the rim via a short rappel and a lot of hiking. We linked pitches 2 and 3 to avoid the hanging belay. This worked great. Some of the bolts on the bolt ladders wiggle a bit. Make sure you bring lots of stoppers or rivet hangers since there are only a few bolts with hangers. One topo we saw showed an anchor on the summit but there isn't one. Be prepared to downclimb 5.8 from the summit.
Overall a great route on a sweet feature in a beautiful canyon! Apr 12, 2018
slim    
ben, did you rap down near the "standard" overlook/campsite sort of thing? i think there might be a steel ladder to get out to the point or something like that? if so, how was getting back up and out at the end of the day? i scoped that cliffline for quite a ways, from the campsite almost to texas tower, and i couldn't really figure out something that looked super straight forward.

thanks for adding the new towers to MP, hope you guys keep getting out and getting muddy. Apr 13, 2018
No anchor on the summit? Weird. I vaguely remember a short scramble to the summit but it wasn't very long. Apr 13, 2018

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