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Routes in Crackhouse

Baby House V2 5+
Birth Canal, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Whore, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crackhouse, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V8 7B
Outside Traverse S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Tait Rees
Page Views: 4,366 total, 37/month
Shared By: Shanti on Apr 17, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Crack Whore is a 25-30 foot off-width roof bouldering problem. Start as far back in the cave as possible and climb out to the lip. A variation "The Crack Head" (11+) is to climb through the squeeze chimmney in the middle avoiding the crux (turning the lip).

Location

Take 191 North from Moab. Turn left on highway 313. Drive approximately 10 miles and turn left onto the Gemini Bridges road.
Follow the signs to Gemini Bridges. The Crack Whore is approximately 5.8 miles from the Gemini Bridges road turn-off about a mile before the Crack House.

From the turn-off onto Gemini Bridges Road:
After 4 miles go right at the Gemini Bridges Sign
After 4.7 miles stay left at "Y" following the Gemini Bridges sign
After 5.6 Miles stay left at the "Y"
After 5.8 Miles stay left
Park anywhere you can off the road
There will be a large drainage on the right side
Hike down the drainage to the Rim
The Crack Whore is the on the right

Protection

At least two bouldering pads and a good spotter or two.

Photos

Shanti
 
Shanti  
 
The new and improved Crack House. Apr 1, 2010
Bryan Gilmore
New England
  5.12b
Bryan Gilmore   New England
  5.12b
I had to dry-hump that 3 times over about 8 years to finally surmount!
She was fully worth it. Jul 8, 2008
OW Poser
  5.12b
OW Poser  
  5.12b
The Crack Whore is always ready for a good time ! Jun 7, 2008