Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.2 from 91
FA: Art Gran and Pete Vlachos (1965)
> g. V3 - Middle Earth
2019 Peregrine Closure
Wisecrack to Scary Area
Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Wisecrack is somewhat of an oddity amongst Gunks routes: it follows a vertical crack system, and you'll probably find yourself making a few real crack moves on it!
: You know how people say about some climbs, "this is a great route for someone just breaking into the grade?" Well, this is a great route for someone just breaking OUT of the grade.
P1 - Climb the obvious left-facing flake and crack system, heading for the overhang at a notch above an alcove. Surmount the overhang (some layback, some jam), then continue up the crack and face.
P2 - Scamper up easy (but loose and vegetated) ground to the GT ledge.
P1 and P2 can be combined into a long 60m pitch. If you're only climbing P1, you'll want to either set a belay or a good directional, then aim rightwards towards the bolted anchor
on Middle Earth
P3 (description courtesy of Brian) - Start below the huge right-facing corner capped by a roof, well left of the good ledge. Make a bouldery move up onto the face, head up into the corner and eventually out left around the arete, and pass several easy overhangs on your way to the clifftop.
Rappel Middle Earth
- be careful of loose pebbles, and climbers below you. It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow
Standard Gunks rack; crux(es) well-protected.