All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Bad Bananas

Beetlejuice

Name: Beetlejuice
Rating: 2.7

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Bad Bananas

L › R R › L A › Z

	Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Bungrip S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Captain Cupcake S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	When You're Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS:	40.2666, -111.6263
FA:	Darren Knezek
Page Views:	908 total · 4/month
Shared By:	Perin Blanchard on Apr 17, 2008
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

An exciting, pumpy climb on rough, sharp rock through a roof, overhanging territory, and a couple of bulges.

Start on top of a tillite ramp and climb out to the lip of the roof using good handholds and poor feet. Clip the third bolt, eye the good holds above the roof and wonder how you are ever going to get there.

After figuring it out, pull up over the roof to a good clipping hold for the fourth bolt, and then wonder where the feet went. Think happy thoughts, apply the pixie dust, and float up to the fifth bolt. At this point, the feet are tricky and the handholds become temporarily devious. Continue on up using sharp, horizontal holds, sidepulls, underclings, and wishful thinking.

After the last bolt it is fairly easy to surmount the final bulge and get to the chains.

The route name comes from the squishy remains of a Box Elder Bug colony that Darren's hands left during the FA in one of the slot handholds just over the roof.

Location

Just to the left of the "cave" section at the base of Bad Bananas. The start is easily identified by two closely-spaced bolts under the roof, next to a right-facing horizontal corner. The third bolt is in a straight line from the first two, just at the lip of the roof.