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Routes in Bad Bananas

Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When YouÂ’re Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Justin Jeffs, Jarom Feriante
Page Views: 1,414 total, 12/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 17, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

A fun route that requires careful, shifting footwork. There are actually two variations to this route: stopping at the first set of chains is .10d; continuing without stopping to the second set of chains is .11b.

The crux of the first part is low: getting off the ground and then pulling up to and clipping the second bolt. Fortunately the first bolt is low and can be clipped from the ground to protect this bit. After the crux the difficulty eases up somewhat.

After the second bolt the route continues trending left just a bit to the third bolt and then fairly straight up from there. However, the climbing requires weaving a bit back and forth to use the available hand- and footholds. Footholds abound, but are not a ladder in any sense.

Just before the first set of chains is a steeper section with sparser holds; get through this and into a shallow v-slot to the left of the first set of chains.

The exposure at the chains is exhilarating; Looking out west over Utah Valley is quite pleasant.

For the .11b variation continue past the chains up and right. This section is hugely entertaining; it continually gets steeper and harder, right up to the chains. Big holds for the most part, with one thinner section.

Note that the variation to the second set of chains is approximately 120 feet long. A 70m rope is not quite long enough to lower all the way to the ground (lower to the first set of chains, clip in, pull the rope, etc.).

Location

The right-most bolted route at the base of Bad Bananas. The route starts to the left of a bush, and there are more bushes below the ledge on which it starts.

Protection

11 bolts, chain anchors (.10d); 11 bolts plus clipping the first chains, followed by 6 more bolts, then chain anchors (.11b). That's 20 draws for the long version!

Photos

Kyle Hill
Denver, CO
 
Kyle Hill   Denver, CO
 
One of my favorite routes in Rock Canyon! Have climbed the route twice with different 70M ropes each time and was able to lower to the ground after doing the extension. Jan 26, 2015
Canyon Copa  
 
Tough start clipping the first couple bolts. My friend took two bad falls in a row clipping the second bolt and landed in the bush below. After that the rest isn't very challenging, just long. May 29, 2012
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10d
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10d
I just did the first pitch and am yearning to do the second. I love how long this climb is. For me the hardest part was up in the orange rock with side pulls and crummy feet. Definitely worth a jaunt. Nov 9, 2009
shotmaker  
 
The project to the up to the left of the first chains is called "Vitamin P" I estimate it at 11d to 12b. At far as I know, no one has the official FA on since Jarom and I bolted it. It is very exposed and not allot of large holds. Be careful on the rap down, its a long one. Sep 10, 2009
I did the first pitch in full white out conditions one winter some years ago. There is a different pitch that leads of to the left on a pretty tough rail to the slab above the huge roof. Mar 12, 2009
Aaron Child  
 
Climbed the first and second pitch in one long pitch. The rope drag was...manageable. The second pitch is definitely classic, exposed, and a workout. The last bolt seems a little close to the anchors, and it makes clipping the chains quite the ordeal. 120 feet of good jugs never felt so good. Feb 25, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
I've now climbed this route to the second set of chains so I modified the description. The second part is a lot of fun (and definitely a "pump-fest", as advertised).

Note that lowering off the second set of chains may be a bit complicated. We managed to lower all the way to the ground with my "70m" rope, which actually measured out at 72m when it was new. When the climber was at the ground there was 1 foot of rope left before the belay device (a knot is a good idea).

Also, managing rope drag might be important. I used three standard-length slings and several foot-long quickdraws, backcleaned a couple of draws that were still within reach, and it was still all I could do to pull up the rope at the end. Jan 17, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
One of the best things about this route (and the reason I gave it three stars) was hanging at the first set of chains. It was a cold April evening, the sun had just set, the gibbous moon was out, and it was really cool being way up in the air over Rock Canyon.

I suspect if you did this in the dead heat of a July afternoon it wouldn't be quite so magical.

I should also note that I only went to the first set of chains, so I can't really describe the extension. It is overhanging, and I have it on good authority that it is a "pump-fest". Apr 17, 2008