Oscar the Grouch
Avg: 2.8 from 18 votes
Routes in Bad Bananas
|Allegro Energico S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Bad Bananas T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Banana Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Be All That You Can Be S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Beetlejuice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Brain Full of Spiders S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Bufugly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Chiquita S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dancing With Feral Debutantes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Early Retirement T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|El Crapitan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Good Plantains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Jodonna S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Moment of Decay S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Mozambique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Oscar the Grouch S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rainbird S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Vitamine P S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Western Front S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|When Youre Feeling Sinister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||Justin Jeffs, Jarom Feriante|
|Page Views:||1,414 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Apr 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA fun route that requires careful, shifting footwork. There are actually two variations to this route: stopping at the first set of chains is .10d; continuing without stopping to the second set of chains is .11b.
The crux of the first part is low: getting off the ground and then pulling up to and clipping the second bolt. Fortunately the first bolt is low and can be clipped from the ground to protect this bit. After the crux the difficulty eases up somewhat.
After the second bolt the route continues trending left just a bit to the third bolt and then fairly straight up from there. However, the climbing requires weaving a bit back and forth to use the available hand- and footholds. Footholds abound, but are not a ladder in any sense.
Just before the first set of chains is a steeper section with sparser holds; get through this and into a shallow v-slot to the left of the first set of chains.
The exposure at the chains is exhilarating; Looking out west over Utah Valley is quite pleasant.
For the .11b variation continue past the chains up and right. This section is hugely entertaining; it continually gets steeper and harder, right up to the chains. Big holds for the most part, with one thinner section.
Note that the variation to the second set of chains is approximately 120 feet long. A 70m rope is not quite long enough to lower all the way to the ground (lower to the first set of chains, clip in, pull the rope, etc.).