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Routes in Oak Creek Canyon Overlook

Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Constant Gardener T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gingerbread T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head Cheese T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I've Always Been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Walk, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Magumba's Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sparky And The Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 12 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Davidson, John Fleming, w/ work by Tim & Larry Coats and Jim Haisley
Page Views: 1,114 total, 9/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Apr 16, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

My favorite climb at the Overlook.

You'll end up climbing many of the cruxes of the various routes.
I really have no idea how many pitches we did. But it was a full day of climbing. Probably sometime in late May (approximately 1980.)

First one day push was Paul Davidson and John Fleming. I think Larry and Tim later also did the entire link up for the 2nd. Prior to that I'd worked on the route with Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats. We'd go out and do a few pitches here and there until we'd done most of it. The final one day did include some new ground across Isaiah and the Trinities.

This is not really for the faint of heart. Every pitch has something to offer and you want to be climbing with a partner you trust. Not much difference between leading and seconding. In fact, leading is probably easier since you control the placements.

A lot of really fun climbing with some exciting moments here and there. Highly recommended for the Overlook aficionado.

Double ropes would be the ticket.

If you like this route, then go do "Electric Aunt Jememiah in Heat" at Chimney rock (that might even be a better warm up for this one.) And finish up with the awesome and thrilling girdle at Granite Mountain !

Location

Start over at the East walk down. As I recall, where the trail comes by a small nose of rock (this is before you hit the base) you step onto the rock and away you go. It seemed like one of those obvious and fortuitous starts. Like it was a route that was suppose to be there. This first section, until you are out and around the first corner (where you can first see the full cliff band), has some pretty challenging 5.10 stuff. I recall it being 2 or so pitches to get around that first corner (which was great, good exposure, sudden view of the area, etc...)

Other memorable areas, across Crack N Up, Orange Out, The Lines, Szygy, Trinity Wall and a whole lot of other challenging spots.

Route works across the cliff at approximately 1/2 to 2/3 height.


I really have no idea how many pitches we did but it must have been in the 10 - 15 range.

We finished up the 3rd class just west of Red Wagon.

  • *** found some notes *****
We rated this 5.9+, did 10-12 pitches and finished on Deutchland.

I suspect there is almost certainly 5.10 climbing.

Enjoy....

Protection

Standard rack, lots of 5 ft runners very handy. Leave your sport rack at home, short quick draws will mostly be a waste of weight. You'll need to be able to work tricky gear at times w/ opposition placements, etc... Keep an eye on the sideway pulls of the rope on the gear.

Probably more traffic than 3 ascents in 30+ years. Maybe there have been more, it is the overlook after all. Feb 4, 2014
This route deserves more traffic. Jul 2, 2013