Type: Trad, 900 ft, 12 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Davidson, John Fleming, w/ work by Tim & Larry Coats and Jim Haisley
Page Views: 1,232 total · 9/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Apr 16, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Climbing restricted due to tourist safety Details

Description

My favorite climb at the Overlook.

You'll end up climbing many of the cruxes of the various routes.
I really have no idea how many pitches we did. But it was a full day of climbing. Probably sometime in late May (approximately 1980.)

First one day push was Paul Davidson and John Fleming. I think Larry and Tim later also did the entire link up for the 2nd. Prior to that I'd worked on the route with Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats. We'd go out and do a few pitches here and there until we'd done most of it. The final one day did include some new ground across Isaiah and the Trinities.

This is not really for the faint of heart. Every pitch has something to offer and you want to be climbing with a partner you trust. Not much difference between leading and seconding. In fact, leading is probably easier since you control the placements.

A lot of really fun climbing with some exciting moments here and there. Highly recommended for the Overlook aficionado.

Double ropes would be the ticket.

If you like this route, then go do "Electric Aunt Jememiah in Heat" at Chimney rock (that might even be a better warm up for this one.) And finish up with the awesome and thrilling girdle at Granite Mountain !

Location

Start over at the East walk down. As I recall, where the trail comes by a small nose of rock (this is before you hit the base) you step onto the rock and away you go. It seemed like one of those obvious and fortuitous starts. Like it was a route that was suppose to be there. This first section, until you are out and around the first corner (where you can first see the full cliff band), has some pretty challenging 5.10 stuff. I recall it being 2 or so pitches to get around that first corner (which was great, good exposure, sudden view of the area, etc...)

Other memorable areas, across Crack N Up, Orange Out, The Lines, Szygy, Trinity Wall and a whole lot of other challenging spots.

Route works across the cliff at approximately 1/2 to 2/3 height.

I really have no idea how many pitches we did but it must have been in the 10 - 15 range.

We finished up the 3rd class just west of Red Wagon.

  • *** found some notes *****
We rated this 5.9+, did 10-12 pitches and finished on Deutchland.

I suspect there is almost certainly 5.10 climbing.

Enjoy....

Protection

Standard rack, lots of 5 ft runners very handy. Leave your sport rack at home, short quick draws will mostly be a waste of weight. You'll need to be able to work tricky gear at times w/ opposition placements, etc... Keep an eye on the sideway pulls of the rope on the gear.

Photos

This route deserves more traffic. Jul 2, 2013
Paul Davidson
  5.10
Paul Davidson  
  5.10
Probably more traffic than 3 ascents in 30+ years. Maybe there have been more, it is the overlook after all. Feb 4, 2014