Routes in Oak Creek Canyon Overlook
Redrum AKA Jungleland T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Agent Orange T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Amateur Hour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Amputation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Angel's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Answered Prayers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Applesticks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Blunderbuss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Burger King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Burnt Buns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Bush Rush T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Circus Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Cloudwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Constant Gardener T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
CrackUp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Devil's Deed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Direct Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Duck Soup T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Dugald's Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Dugald's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dyzygy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Fresh Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gambit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
George's Niche T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Gingerbread T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Girdle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Griffo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Grunt'N'Dangle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Hand Jive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Hard Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Head Cheese T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Hidden Hollow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R | |
Horn, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
I've Always Been Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Isaiah T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Jelly Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Left Trinity Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Long Walk, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Looked Over T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Magumba's Corner T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Mellow Yellow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Microtome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Middle Trinity Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Mint Jam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Mint Julep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Morning After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Morning's Mourning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Nickle Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Normally 3 Rurps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Normally Urgent T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Obediah T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Obscurity T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Orange Julius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 | |
Orange Out Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
PegLeg I, II T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Pensativa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Piddley Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Red Wagon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Right Trinity Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Sexual Deviations T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Shining, AKA Not Fade Away, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Sin Ropa T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R | |
Sintisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Sneak Preview T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R | |
Sparky And The Firedog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Stalemate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Stonegate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Swedish Britfast Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Syzygy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Too Proud to Geek T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 | |
Trinity Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Trinity Roofs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Wager Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 | |
Wanderlust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
Type: | Trad, 900 ft, 12 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Paul Davidson, John Fleming, w/ work by Tim & Larry Coats and Jim Haisley |
Page Views: | 1,114 total, 9/month |
Shared By: | Paul Davidson on Apr 16, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety
Details
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
Description
My favorite climb at the Overlook.You'll end up climbing many of the cruxes of the various routes.
I really have no idea how many pitches we did. But it was a full day of climbing. Probably sometime in late May (approximately 1980.)
First one day push was Paul Davidson and John Fleming. I think Larry and Tim later also did the entire link up for the 2nd. Prior to that I'd worked on the route with Jim Haisley, Tim & Larry Coats. We'd go out and do a few pitches here and there until we'd done most of it. The final one day did include some new ground across Isaiah and the Trinities.
This is not really for the faint of heart. Every pitch has something to offer and you want to be climbing with a partner you trust. Not much difference between leading and seconding. In fact, leading is probably easier since you control the placements.
A lot of really fun climbing with some exciting moments here and there. Highly recommended for the Overlook aficionado.
Double ropes would be the ticket.
If you like this route, then go do "Electric Aunt Jememiah in Heat" at Chimney rock (that might even be a better warm up for this one.) And finish up with the awesome and thrilling girdle at Granite Mountain !
Location
Start over at the East walk down. As I recall, where the trail comes by a small nose of rock (this is before you hit the base) you step onto the rock and away you go. It seemed like one of those obvious and fortuitous starts. Like it was a route that was suppose to be there. This first section, until you are out and around the first corner (where you can first see the full cliff band), has some pretty challenging 5.10 stuff. I recall it being 2 or so pitches to get around that first corner (which was great, good exposure, sudden view of the area, etc...)Other memorable areas, across Crack N Up, Orange Out, The Lines, Szygy, Trinity Wall and a whole lot of other challenging spots.
Route works across the cliff at approximately 1/2 to 2/3 height.
I really have no idea how many pitches we did but it must have been in the 10 - 15 range.
We finished up the 3rd class just west of Red Wagon.
- *** found some notes *****
I suspect there is almost certainly 5.10 climbing.
Enjoy....
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