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Good Zzzzzs
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Rockfellow Dome
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Abracadaver T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bandersnatch-Hanger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bouncin' Around the Room T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cliffhanger T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Fast Track T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Good Zzzzzs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Inner Passage (aka Interiors) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jabberwocky T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Knead Me T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Labyrinth, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Long, Strange Trip, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Lumpy Unmentionables T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Sensory Desuetude T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Sound of One Hand Thrashing T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 31.92692, -109.97782 |
| FA: | Paul Davidson, John Steiger, Mid 80s |
| Page Views: | 2,739 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Davidson on Apr 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
Climb the obvious wide chimney left of Jaberwocky.
Go deep back in there. At the top of the chimney there's an arching crack out right. (You can see this from the campground actually.)
From the top of the chimney, I suspect you can go left onto the wandering original route up the dome.
Chimney is knee butt with no pro and a slightly hinky move in the middle as there's a small roof that causes the size to step down. I think you might get some gear in above this move. But it's pretty straight forward climbing.
Upper crack is pretty cool 5.8 and puts you on top of the Abra summit. (NOTE, not the true dome summit, but top of Abra.) Still have to do that last nasty boulder bit to tag the real summit.
I'd raved about this arching crack to Steiger and convinced him to go up there. "Good Zzzzs" because we were on top by 10 AM or so and ended up getting sun burned from napping on the summit area. So what I was expecting to be another test piece turned out to be probably the easiest way to the top of the Rockfellow dome.
I've heard that Gary Gray might have climbed this in the 79/80 but I don't know about that. We didn't see any signs of a previous ascent but that doesn't mean much. The climbing was well within Gary's abilities. From the top of the long chimney (I can't recall if that was only 1 pitch but I think it was) I suspect you could go left onto the original McCoomb route (I'm forgetting the name of that one at the moment, the original line to the summit.)
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