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Routes in Mother Lode Wall

Large and In Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother Lode T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Is In T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Adam Kimmerly & Robb Kulin - April 13, 2008
Page Views: 45 total, 0/month
Shared By: Adam Kimmerly on Apr 14, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Scramble up 10 feet to the crack and then fist jam to the top. The crux is pulling through the pod section near the bottom where the crack flares inward and the crack is too wide to foot jam.

Location

The left-most, vertical, 50-foot fist crack on the South wall of the corridor left of "Thin Is In". Faces North and is shady all day.

Protection

Tape, long pants, long sleeves... oh, gear. Right... 3-4.5" pieces are key. #3 and #4 Camalots protect the crack well. You might be able to find a spot for a #2 deep in the crack near the top, but three #3s and one #4 is best. I'm sure you could use two #3s and two #4s instead. Anchor with more wide gear, or tie off to a tree 30' back from the top of the route. Short walk off to the climber's left.

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