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> Joshua Tree NP
> Queen Valley Area
> Desert Queen Mine
> Mother Lode Wall
Large and In Charge
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 2
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Routes in Mother Lode Wall
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Large and In Charge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mother Lode T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Is In T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Adam Kimmerly & Robb Kulin - April 13, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 691 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Kimmerly on Apr 14, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Scramble up 10 feet to the crack and then fist jam to the top. The crux is pulling through the pod section near the bottom where the crack flares inward and the crack is too wide to foot jam.
Location
The left-most, vertical, 50-foot fist crack on the South wall of the corridor left of "Thin Is In". Faces North and is shady all day.
Protection
Tape, long pants, long sleeves... oh, gear. Right... 3-4.5" pieces are key. #3 and #4 Camalots protect the crack well. You might be able to find a spot for a #2 deep in the crack near the top, but three #3s and one #4 is best. I'm sure you could use two #3s and two #4s instead. Anchor with more wide gear, or tie off to a tree 30' back from the top of the route. Short walk off to the climber's left.
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