Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,392 total · 25/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route

25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


One of the best climbs at Frey.

Pitch 1: short; crack to two bolt friction face. Belay on ledge at slung block. 5.
P2: Wild and steep climbing up queer features not usually found in granite. Pro is tricky at the start, as much of the rock sounds hollow. After the steep part, a thin face leads to the third belay halfway up the huge, right-facing crescent feature. 6a.
P3: Follow the crescent as it widens into a layback and then undercling flake. Not much for pro until you turn the corner, but it's not hard. Great exposure. Belay at the cave above the flake. 5+.
P4: The business. Lead out left onto the extremely exposed, hanging arete. Bolts take you up to the roof, which you pass on the left. Small nuts and cams up thin features to the last belay. 6a+.
P5: Hoot-and-holler type fun and steep jug-hauling, dynamite exposure to the top of the pinnacle. Exhilerating. 5.


North face of the Campanille Esloveno. Refer to the three-ring binder in the Refugio for further beta.

Three two rope raps straight down your route spit you out at your packs.


Small to 3.5". Extra big pro optional for p3, or runout moderate liebacking/undercling.


Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
5.10 is the grade we were told - could be a sandbag. We thought it was tougher than most 5.10s we'd done, but we're no studs. Apr 14, 2008
Rob Dillon  
Seemed close enough for me. Apr 14, 2008
Paul S
Fruita, CO
Paul S   Fruita, CO
I'd agree that this is one of the best at Frey. Every pitch was sssooo much fun. If you only have a short amount of time I'd recommend getting on this over Torre Principal. The hike is also not as bad as it looks and it is really beautiful up there. May 15, 2009
Jim Med
Bellingham, WA
  5.10b R
Jim Med   Bellingham, WA
  5.10b R
One of the most straight-forward and reasonably-graded long routes at Frey. But then again, maybe I am just getting used to the consistent sand-bagging? Really fun climbing- great exposure and unusual climbing on featured granite. Also, you can descend the route with one 70m rope- I think 60m is no problem as well- just five rappels down the route. Jan 17, 2012
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Amazing route doesn't even say enough! Really spectacular and one of the most interesting things I've ever climbed. I'd agree that it's well graded at 5.10 but it's runout in spots so you might not want to be leading at your limit on this one. Jan 5, 2015
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.10 PG13
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.10 PG13
Best route we did on our first trip to Frey! Every pitch is awesome. Well worth the long approach.

A bit of useful beta on the routed:

- P1 felt hard for the grade; not compared to the rest of the route, just the pitch grade
- A number 4 was nice for P2, but not necessary. Felt a bit bouldery.
- The run-out on P3 does get easier as you go, but you feel the distance building as you keep traversing.
- P4 can be quite confusing! After passing by the roof (to the left) you may be tempted to keep going up the thin crack. Don't do this. It's much harder than the grade and gets run-out. The route works back right at obvious huecos and you get some pro in after a short traverse (sling a rock feature).
- P5 is pure, juggy fun!

Confirm you can rap the route with a single 70m. I don't think a 60m would reach the cave on the second rappel. Jan 11, 2017
James Huang
Ford Econoline
James Huang   Ford Econoline
2 hr approach if you take it easy and don't get lost. Keep looking behind you as you approach, getting lost heading back to camp is much easier than getting to the climb

Definitely don't think you can make the cave rap with a 60m.

Bring a 1 liter nalgene, so many places to fill water, even at the upper plateau.

Check out niceclimbs.com/areas/intern… for more info Jan 27, 2019