Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,937 total · 26/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 13, 2008
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

One of the best climbs at Frey.

Pitch 1: short; crack to two bolt friction face. Belay on ledge at slung block. 5.
P2: Wild and steep climbing up queer features not usually found in granite. Pro is tricky at the start, as much of the rock sounds hollow. After the steep part, a thin face leads to the third belay halfway up the huge, right-facing crescent feature. 6a.
P3: Follow the crescent as it widens into a layback and then undercling flake. Not much for pro until you turn the corner, but it's not hard. Great exposure. Belay at the cave above the flake. 5+.
P4: The business. Lead out left onto the extremely exposed, hanging arete. Bolts take you up to the roof, which you pass on the left. Small nuts and cams up thin features to the last belay. 6a+.
P5: Hoot-and-holler type fun and steep jug-hauling, dynamite exposure to the top of the pinnacle. Exhilerating. 5.

Location

North face of the Campanille Esloveno. Refer to the three-ring binder in the Refugio for further beta.

Three two rope raps straight down your route spit you out at your packs.

Protection

Small to 3.5". Extra big pro optional for p3, or runout moderate liebacking/undercling.

Photos