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Routes in Little England Wall

Anne of a Thousand Days T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Ben T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Charles II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Henry VIII T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
London Tower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Minster Abbey T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
great split, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1977 - Kent Brock, Don O'Kelley
Page Views: 136 total, 1/month
Shared By: kirra on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

P1-Climb a wide crack into another crack that angles left. Up crack and into chimney behind a large flake.

P2-Through and out chimney to top of flake. Continue up crack and out onto face to a small ledge.

P3-Climb left into the large crack and to the top.

Location

Route begins apx 40 ft to the right of Big Ben (see area beta photo) see "Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon" by Marty Karabin for more routes in the area.

Protection

Be careful of loose rock. Small-lge pro; stoppers, cams, hexes. Two-bolt anchor at top of Henry VIII, need 2 60m ropes for rap.

Take x-tra webbing in case you need to replace. Always check for UV damage that can cause nylon-slings to become brittle.

Photos

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Had a great climb on the London Tower.

Wasn't sure about how long to stay in the chimney on Pitch 2, so I switched onto the face of the flake after passing the 2nd chockstone. One minor exposed move around the corner, then smooth climbing to the top of the ledge.

Pitch 3 was pretty short and simple up the big crack.

We replaced the webbing at the rap, but used the two existing rap rings. Apr 1, 2017