Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Reppy (1967)
Page Views: 2,730 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This is a wonderful climb, with some great face climbing on P2. The P1 mini-roof is harder than it looks. The P2 crux protects with small cams or tricams, but there is some easier runout climbing after the crux. It's a heady lead if 5.6 is your limit.

P1 - Climb the flake and crack to the small roof, surmount it on the left, then traverse back right on the face. Continue up and right toward the left edge of the gully to a stance with 2 blocks and a belay. There is sometimes some fixed gear here.

P2 - Continue up the face until it steepens, finding the best holds, up to the GT ledge. Move right to the belay station and rap with two 60m ropes.

P3 - You could continue to the top on grassy rock if you must, but hardly anyone does.

Location

At a short, right facing flake capped by a small roof just left of the broken gully that separates this climb from the Dis-Mantel block.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack + small cams/tricams

Photos