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Son of Bitchy Virgin
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 42
votes
Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Willie's Weep T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy and John Reppy (1967) |
| Page Views: | 2,212 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Description
This is a wonderful climb, with some great face climbing on P2. The P1 mini-roof is harder than it looks. The P2 crux protects with small cams or tricams, but there is some easier runout climbing after the crux. It's a heady lead if 5.6 is your limit.
P1 - Climb the flake and crack to the small roof, surmount it on the left, then traverse back right on the face. Continue up and right toward the left edge of the gully to a stance with 2 blocks and a belay. There is sometimes some fixed gear here.
P2 - Continue up the face until it steepens, finding the best holds, up to the GT ledge. Move right to the belay rap tree and rap with two 60m ropes.
P3 - You could continue to the top on grassy rock if you must, but hardly anyone does.
P1 - Climb the flake and crack to the small roof, surmount it on the left, then traverse back right on the face. Continue up and right toward the left edge of the gully to a stance with 2 blocks and a belay. There is sometimes some fixed gear here.
P2 - Continue up the face until it steepens, finding the best holds, up to the GT ledge. Move right to the belay rap tree and rap with two 60m ropes.
P3 - You could continue to the top on grassy rock if you must, but hardly anyone does.
Location
At a short, right facing flake capped by a small roof just left of the broken gully that separates this climb from the Dis-Mantel block.
CO
Cold Spring