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Willie's Weep

5.2, Trad, 225 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 1.4 from 23 votes
FA: George and Herbert Evans and Robert Graef (1953)
New York > Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

Yuck!!

Not because of anything weeping, but because of the wandering P1 and some loose rock. We never got to the weepy part (actually, we never really wanted to do the route after downclimbing and rapping it to get off Triple Bulges), which is after the nice rappel at the top of P2.

P1 - Climb a short left-facing corner to a stance, then move up and right to a short, wide horizontal at about 50 feet. Diagonal left to another horizontal and move still farther left to the large, obvious corner with some broken rock. Traverse left past some loose rock (scary for 5.2) to the belay tree/ledge for Twin Oaks.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch that seems awfully close to Triple Bulges, perhaps a bit right, without the final bulges. I tried to follow it but kept ending up actually on Triple Bulges.

P3 - Avoid. From the belay tree, climb the seepy, broken 15-foot high corner to climber's left, then move left and up the grassy, easy face to the top. Definitely not worth doing.

Location

About 35 feet right and around the corner from the obvious crack that marks Twin Oaks.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. Williams' Guide says G, but I found P1 very PG.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down on the P1 face of Willie's Weep from the optional belay tree on P2.
[Hide Photo] Looking down on the P1 face of Willie's Weep from the optional belay tree on P2.
The Willie's Weep traverse near the top of P1. Photo taken from belay tree. The wider foot crack is to the right in the photo,  obscured by tree branches. The narrower, straight, horizontal crack (above center) is great for pro (I used a 0.4 C4).
[Hide Photo] The Willie's Weep traverse near the top of P1. Photo taken from belay tree. The wider foot crack is to the right in the photo, obscured by tree branches. The narrower, straight, horizontal crack (…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Did the regular 1st pitch with my 12 yr old son. I thought it was a nice climb but maybe harder than 5.2 for a new leader. Nice face moves protected by aliens or C3s in pin scars then a great layback in the corner. Didn't notice much loose rock. Oct 18, 2011