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Twin Oaks

5.3, Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.9 from 47 votes
FA: Gardiner and Mary Perry (1957)
New York > Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

The first pitch is nice and a good first lead. The second pitch wanders around the face above, and I have never been able to tell exactly where it goes. I prefer P2 of Triple Bulges.

P1 - Climb up the nice face for 10-15 feet (crux) past a couple horizontals to the obvious crack. Climb the crack and/or face to the left for a few feet, then finish up the face either to the left or right of the crack. Rappel from a tree ~15' left.

P2, described by John : From the P1 belay terrace, climb the pebbly face straight up to the next large ledge. Step left about 7 ft. Look up at the short, arcing left facing corner capped by a small overhang. Now you can't possibly get lost. Climb the corner, exit the overhang on thin holds. Trend up and slightly left to the long small overhang with a ring piton (and note the crack in the piton ring). At the piton, climb straight up to the large overhanging ledges. One tricky move at a flake gets you onto the juggy overhangs. Take the path of least resistance, slightly left, through the overhangs on jugs (5.3 G). Manage your rope drag carefully, since the pitch is 150 ft, plus another 30 ft to a good belay tree at the top.

Location

Past Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, at the right edge of the Guide's Wall; Twin Oaks is the next crack right of the striking Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul Deagle - Twin Oaks 5.3
[Hide Photo] Paul Deagle - Twin Oaks 5.3
Twin Oaks
[Hide Photo] Twin Oaks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.3
[Hide Comment] Agree that this is a difficult route to figure out the line...it seems to kinda wander a bit up the easy ledges. However, it can be easy to get off route on harder stuff. Oct 13, 2011
[Hide Comment] First pitch is great, I could do that for another 150'. Totally "G". Apr 14, 2013
john2.71
Montclair, NJ
5.3
[Hide Comment] A fun 5.3 with a several thin moves to keep it spicy. This is the best easy line at the guide's wall. The route is obvious. The description Dick Williams even tells you where the pitons are and where to belay.
Thanks for adding a description for P2 - I moved it to the route description. -JSH Sep 29, 2014
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
[Hide Comment] The ring on the P2 piton is cracked. The only option to back it up is a questionable black tricam (actually, you can't really back it up; you need to choose one or the other) and it's a pretty ridiculous fall if either fails (40 ft the way I protected below, there might have been gear lower that I don't bother to place but you're hitting a ledge regardless). I think this pitch is in the pg13 to R category. Jun 14, 2017
Valerie A.B.
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Not a good beginner climb as I saw mentioned somewhere. Second pitch wandery, dirty, and a bit run out. I remember bailing off to Northern Pillar when I tried to lead it years ago. There is a spot where you look up to a dirty wall, the way is not obvious, and any gear possibilities are far away. Happy I went back and stuck it out this time tho. A fun, true route-finding adventure. Jun 16, 2017
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
  5.3 PG13
[Hide Comment] Opinions:
I agree that it's PG13 and not the best for a new leader despite the grade...bit of an adventure to find the intended route.

I think there are better beginner lines in this area (Northern Pillar), but p1 is nice. I think 'Obvious' describes p1 pretty well, but is not the word I'd use to describe p2. When I hear obvious, I think something like mountainproject.com/photo/1… Jul 16, 2018