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Routes in Beer Wall

A Pound of Prevention T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beer Wench S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bubbaweiser S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Celebration Ale S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cerveza Verde S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cirrhosis of the Leader S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daisy Cutter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delerium Tremors S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Doo-Wah Woof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fred Sandstone Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gilded Otter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Micro Brew S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Near Beer S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spatenweiss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
St. Pauli Girl S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thank God I'm Bubbafied! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werewolf T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric McCallister, Eric Hörst, Charles Ganote, and Cindy Hintz (June, 2002)
Page Views: 1,428 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

No way this puppy is 5.8-. Definite sandbag. The opening crack is at least 5.9. Get a good spot or bring a stick clip for the crux, because you'll be doing it before you clip the first bolt.

Climb the flaring crack through the bulge (crux, strenuous clip), then stray a bit right up the nice face to a short open book. Stem up the open book (5.7) to the anchors.

Location

Below an obvious flaring crack below the far right side of the roof system.

Protection

4 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
I couldn't start this...not only is it a flaring crack, there is a small bulge right above, blocking good feet and offering naught but slopers for hands. Aug 17, 2015