Paradicey
5.10a,
Sport, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 10
votes
FA: Walt Corvington and Alan Amos - 1986
Oregon
> Willamette Valley
> Flagstone
> Walts Wall
Description
Climb a low angled slab to a short 5.9 section. Finish on 10a edges.
I find that the bottom section cruises. You'll know when you're at the first crux (5.9) when it gets steeper. Perform the one move wonder to get past this section and cruise up to a ledge. Ponder your sequence briefly and grab onto some solid (10a) edges. A small mantle finishes it up.
For whatever reason, the lower "crux" seems harder to me, but I think it is more heady than hard.
Location
Farthest left route on Walts Wall; or just right of the Hydrotube area (past the arete).
Protection
QD's