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Geisha Girl

5.8, Sport, 95 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 303 votes
FA: Eric Hörst, Eric McCallister (2004)
W Virginia > New River Gorge > New River Gorge… > Bubba City > Sandstonia
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the right-trending wide crack to a stance, then head left to the first bolt. Follow 10 more bolts on mostly low angle rock with some high stepping bulge moves up and left to anchors at the top just below the rim.

Location

At an obvious wide crack to the right of the opening block of Bobby D's Bunny.

Protection

High first bolt. A #4 (or #5 higher in the crack) Camalot protects the crack rather well if you don't have a long stick clip to reach the first bolt. 11 bolts + bolted anchor. 60 M rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Geisha Girl (5.8): My first climb at the New (Jul 2016)
[Hide Photo] Geisha Girl (5.8): My first climb at the New (Jul 2016)
Geisha Girl by @drawingsfordirtbags
[Hide Photo] Geisha Girl by @drawingsfordirtbags
Geisha girl to left of tree. Starts up crack.
[Hide Photo] Geisha girl to left of tree. Starts up crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stephen Montgomery
Washington DC
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This route is fantastic and worth doing, however there are two very sketchy blocks that are loose up top. Both are marked with an "x" however there is so much chalk over both of them the "x" could just easily not be seen. Be careful. Jan 9, 2016
[Hide Comment] Lots of choss - the two x'd out blocks and a handful of smaller blocks up top. Definitely stout at 5.8 and a tad spicy. A fun warm up but not totally sure where the 'classic' reputation has come from except the height. Mrs. Fields Follies is way better. Jun 12, 2017
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
 
[Hide Comment] Those blocks have been loose and marked since my first time there which was about 7 years ago. Though not the pinnacle of quality, loose rock is to be expected outside and is an objective hazard. Though it does detract somewhat from the quality of the route, Geisha Girl is still considered to be a classic. Where else are you going to find 95 feet of slab 5.8 that's bolted and climbs like this one? Regarding the "spiciness" of the route, the difficulty, by most is considered to be slightly less than the neighboring Ms. Field's Follies, and it's only "spicy" because if you fall, you're likely going to hit something on this one. Again, objective hazard of climbing less than vertical 5.8 with healthy holds. I agree that MFF is better, but for the visiting <5.10 climber, this one shouldn't be missed. Jun 23, 2017
Wolf L
New York, NY
  5.6
[Hide Comment] If you don't like the height of the first clip, bring a long stick clip or a #3-4 cam. Nov 23, 2018