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Scene of the Climb

5.11a PG13, Trad, 80160 ft, 12 pitches,  Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: Kevin Bein and Ron Sacks (1976)
New York > Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details

Description

P1 is actually very nice, but it is often wet and the crux gear (an old fixed pin) may be questionable. Use a screamer. I have not climbed P2, so the description is not mine.

P1 - Climb up to the overhang and traverse left to a seam. Climb the seam and the bulge above (crux) to easier rock and a stance. Escape left to Overhanging Layback, or move up and left to an overhang (5.8 R) then up past the overhang to a belay at a block (you can again escape left by traversing past a jammed block before the overhang).

P2 - Up the easy face to a white face and small right-facing corner capped by an overhang and fixed pins. Move up left to another fixed pin (Lost Arrow), then up and left again to a right-facing corner (5.10a, crux) and a stance. Follow the corner to a ceiling, exit left, and chimney up a past bird droppings to the GT ledge.

Location

Below a small overhang just right of the obvious Overhanging Layback flake and right-facing corner.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack + a screamer for the P1 crux pin.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
[Hide Comment] A little "gardening" on lead and it goes, despite water seeping out of the small pod for a hand and/or foot about 18 feet up. (Consider bringing a towel.) Hard to protect without clogging up a decent hold or two. May 19, 2015
akline
  5.11b R
[Hide Comment] you can sling the tree behind you pretty easily to back up the pin at the crux. there is also a tree with a rap station up in the large right facing corner to the left that you can get down with a 60m rope. Aug 31, 2017