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Routes in Dylan Wall

All Along the Watchtower T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood on the Tracks T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blowin' in the Wind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Can't Climb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changing of the Guard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Idiot Wind T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Isis T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Knocking on Heaven's Door T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mighty Quinn, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Million Dollar Bash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One More Cup of Coffee T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Planet Waves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shelter From The Storm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Subterranean Homesick Blues T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tweeter and Monkey Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Watching the River Flow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 116 ft
FA: Johnny Woodward?
Page Views: 1,149 total, 10/month
Shared By: bheller on Apr 7, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The first half is a great 5.9 warm up- then undercling out the awesome roof, clip the bolt, and then good luck pulling the foothold free transition from the underclings on flared big fingers into the flared chimney. Amazing it goes free, because it seems to just barely go. A worthy send. Would be 4 stars if not for the horrible silt that cakes the wall under the roof and in the upper crack.

Location

Obvious left facing corner with huge leftward undercling roof to a single bolt protecting the lip- finishing in a flare/corner. A 70 meter just barely gets you down.

Protection

.75 camalots for the start(4), with 1 camalots(2)in the occasional pod for the first half- .5 camalots (4) out the undercling lieback roof, and orange metolius (4) above the roof. One finger sized piece for the finale(1 yellow metolius). The bolt is essential to keep the rope from jamming in the crack as you climb past the roof.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Someone has added a beefy chain anchor 90ish feet up so just the "warm up" section of the route can be climbed. Seemed 10ish to me - lots of green and red camalots and an occasional gold can be squished in. May 22, 2017