This is a longer, somewhat wandering, route on the Gemstone East crag. It generally has a northern aspect, but it does get sunlight; it could be icy in the deep east-facing features if one were to try a winter ascent.
This route is described and pictured in Jackson's (2006) New Mexico guide as well as in Schein's (2003) Sandia guide book; it is also described and illustrated in the 3rd edition of Hill's "Hikers and Climbers Guide," although it is not in the 2nd edition (don't know about the 1st ed.). The route appears to have recently been 'pruned' with a garden trimmer.
Pitch 1. Friction up the slab past three bolts, with delicate moves past the top bolt to a ledge with a tree at the far left end. Probably good to set a piece above the bolt line before you traverse to the tree, to protect the second. Belay at the tree, which sports two sections of rope fed through tubular webbing (as of September 2019); a crack in the slab next to the tree can serve for an anchor backup.
Pitch 2. A short pitch up and right over easier, blocky ground toward the massive left-facing dihedral. Follow the left-leaning dihedral up a short distance to a 'cave' in the wall of the dihedral. Hint: I hit the dihedral too high, and missed the cave at first because I wasn't looking down to the right. Crawl through the short tunnel at the back of the 'cave' to a solid belay stance where you can stand up, emerging from the rock like a prairie dog. Belay either from a gear anchor at the entrance to the cave, or leave a directional piece at the entrance and belay from the rap anchor (two sections of rope fed through tubular webbing) at the back of the tunnel. This is the established second rap point for this route's descent.
Pitch 3. Out of the crawl-through, and then slightly right up a broken lower-angle face to a ledge at the base of a black stained crux chimney that narrows at the top. Interesting stemming to the top of the chimney leads to another short face that culminates in a prominent arched roof with a clean arc-shaped crack marking its base. To belay, I built a gear anchor in this crack at the left side of the alcove. As of September 2019, there is also a slung horn in a little recess about 15 feet down and to the left, suggesting a possible rap anchor.
Pitch 4. Exit from around the left side of the alcove, climbing for a short distance to the left, then reach a broken slab that heads up to the right. A left-leaning shallow, broad chimney with twin cracks then leads to the final friction face. Traverse this slightly runout, delicate slab, up and then right, ending at the three-bolt, two-chain anchor (the third bolt at this station is just a spinner buttonhead).
Start at the toe of a broad slab, about 50 feet below and climber's left of Opal and Emerald City (easily accessed by downclimbing a class 2-ish gulley below Surf Naked, or by a climbers' trail that contours in from the base of the Gemstone West crag).
Descent: Several options are available, depending on which guide book you consult, but all involve rappelling. For many of the Gemstone East routes that are listed on mountainproject.com, rapping RotE is presented as the preferred option. Conversely, Schein (2003) recommends rappelling Emerald City. We rapped RotE, so I cannot comment on the Emerald City option.
TWO RAPPELS (requires two 60m ropes)
The top rap anchor features two bolts with chains. Using two 60m ropes, a ~150 foot rap takes you to the slung block at the cave/tunnel at the top of the climb's second pitch which is visible. This second rap anchor features 2 tied lengths of static rope inserted/covered by tubular webbing and two aluminum rings as of September 2019; it looked ok but may need updating, so plan accordingly. From the cave/tunnel anchor, a ~105 foot drop will apparently set you down at the base of Surf Naked, but to get to the base of RotE, where your packs are presumably cached, it'll probably be more like a 135 foot rappel. HINT: The orientation of the rap rings must be to climber's right (west, towards the steeper face) at the cave/tunnel anchor. Do not orient the rope to the climber's left (east) into the notch or your rope will get stuck when you pull it.
Notes: The sling that used to be over the horn left of the third anchor may indicate an available rap station, in a pinch. That, in conjunction with the slings on the tree at the first belay station, suggests that rapping the entire route in four drops with a single rope may also be possible.
Standard rack of singles in cams and nuts. I used a #4 camalot, but that is not essential; smaller cams are more useful (e.g., Metolius #1-3 sized). Three bolts are featured on the first pitch.
Albuquerque, NM
Edited to add: We did this whole route in two pitches by skipping the tree all together and going directly from the bolts to the dihedral. I didn't lead this pitch but I didn't hear too much about rope drag so it must have been ok. (again double ropes...)
Fun, although the last few moves to the anchor took me about 20 minutes.
(In all honesty I followed the thin seam up until I could reach out and clip the anchor with a quickdraw, and then stepped over) After watching my follower cruise the slab section, I'd suggest going that way unless you lack the courage (like me). Apr 7, 2008
Albuquerque, NM
On April 2, 2009 we replaced the slings (except for one red) with a good section of 10.2 rope in a webbing sheath. Apr 6, 2009
Albuquerque, NM
For the face moves to the top bolted anchor, there is an iffy small-nut placement in the seam to protect the moves. However, a No. 3 Trango BallNutz fits better. The placement is a little unorthodox: not in a parallel-sided crack; and the 'ball' faces out against a nodual. Still, it appears that it might actually hold a lead fall. May 10, 2009
Sandia Park, NM
I missed the 3rd belay at the "arch" and ended up linking the last two pitches - I do not recommend this approach. The runout and lots of drag made final moves to the anchor quite difficult and scary (to me). I managed to get a purple Metolius TCU in the seam about 6-10' below the anchor. Not perfect, wouldn't have held a clean fall, but probably would've held the cheese grater slide one would expect falling here.
Last summer there was blue cord anchored around a large boulder above P2 - FYI this anchor is gone as far as I can tell. We descended with one 60m in four raps: (1) We followed gravity to a nice flat'ish spot above and east of the tunnel. We left two slings and a fat quick link here. Would've preferred longer slings for the horn we slung. (2) To the tunnel. (3) To the tree. (4) To the ground. Apr 20, 2010
Albuqueruqe,NM
Also, there's a nice new shiny bolt next to a rusty buttonhead on P1. Don't get too excited, because the next bolt is a not so rusty buttonhead, followed by a bomber rusty 1/4". Don't worry though, the next rusty button head is backed up with another buttonhead...awesome ( publications.americanalpine… ). I didn't feel like trusting it and downclimbed and traversed over to the "Walk Don't Run" (5.4)and made it to the tree feeling much better than if I was trusting crappy buttonheads. Aug 16, 2015
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque
P2, P3, and P4 were fun, though they felt short. Seems to me that this climb is pitched out due to how rope drag might start to get you if you didn't pitch it out, but if you feel good about how your rope is running, it's pretty straightforward so linking it up shouldn't be too bad.
At the P3 anchor, if I were going to do this climb again with more than 1 follower, I would climb up to the P3 "arch" but then traverse down and left to the slung horn in the P3 description and belay there (stance seemed better for more people). I did this climb with 2 followers and the stance isn't that great at the arch, so putting three people up there kinda sucked. However, the left side of the arching crack takes bomber gear and the anchor was as solid as solid can be. Just a consideration.
Last bit, with two 70s you can rappel from the P4 anchor to the P1 belay tree, and then a single 70 will take you to the ground. Though your ropes will probably get stuck somewhere along the way when you pull them, ours did lol. Oct 18, 2019
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque, NM
The P1 tree anchor material looked good.
The P2 cave anchor material looked good and a newer piece of webbing has been added into the mix of 2 pieces of static rope that are used.
The rappel horn at the top of P3 has newer webbing on it. Jul 1, 2023
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque, NM
My buddy Dillon Smith & I finished Revenge a little faster than expected & we thought it could be a fun speed challenge!
Today we sent it in 1 hour 54 min.
Also today, Chris Gillooly & Taylor McKenzie sent it in 1:28:34!
Think you can beat the time?
Here are the rules for the game:
- You must use a rope
- You must have a partner
- Time starts & ends at the table at the trailhead with both partners touching the table. 35.204695, -106.487361
- You must start the climb at the beginning of the first pitch. No shortcutting to the first bolt
- You must rappel from the top anchor & middle anchor on Revenge.
This is just for fun so please be safe. Jun 1, 2025
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque, NM
obits.oregonlive.com/us/obi… Jun 3, 2025
Albuquerque, NM