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Routes in Lost Spectacle

South Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Hammack, Reed Cundiff, ~1960
Page Views: 50 total, 0/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Apr 6, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Location

Obvious south ridge on Lost Spectacle.

Description

By Reed Cundiff: Dave Hammack and I did the first ascent from the La Luz side (south ridge) around 1960. I got to a point where I had real problems, so I put in a piton, used it for a handhold to get to a ledge. Was able to reach down and retrieve it and didn't tell Dave. He got where I had put in the piton and couldn't work out how to get up further. He was 5" taller and one heck of a good climber. He finally saw the piton scar and I am afraid that I didn't know he had the vocabulary that he used to describe climbers that sandbag their partners.

South Ridge route is two or three pitches long - three if one starts climbing right off the trail. We did it in two pitches by first scrambling and bushwhacking to a ledge with a medium sized pine tree at the bottom of a short left-leaning open book.

On the climb, we stayed on the south ridge but by doing so there was limited opportunity to set up a belay at our halfway point. It might work to set up a belay at trees mid-way up the SE face (visible in photo). Top out via the horn with a few pretty-fun moves. This route has a fair amount of loose rock.

In late March, the South Ridge gets sun around 9:30 in the morning: possible warm-up to something on The Pulpit.

Protection

Did not note any bolts or fixed gear. Used quite a bit of pro less than 1/2 inch. We found the rap anchor webbing in pieces and replaced it. Rap goes off into the notch and then we exited to the east.

Photos

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