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Routes in South Rock

Agent Orange T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Airy Scary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Alias The Martian T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eagle's Nest (original) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rainy Daze S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Surface Tension T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unknown (South Face Left) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (South Face Right) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Yikes Dikes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig Zag Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 169 total, 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Start by scrambling up a little to the right of the top of the big detached block. Protect with nuts in the back, a move that turns out easier than it looks as ledges appear gains the first bolt. Angle up and left, passing a couple small bulges to reach a big roof with a bolt right at the lip. Figure out how to reach the giant exit chickenhead, and cruise on up to the chains.

This climb has fun moves on good rock, and bolts in the right places. Don't get scared off by the TP reputation for runouts; this one's well protected, and soft for the grade.

Location

This is the left of the 3 bolted lines on the south face of South Rock. It is the line that passes just to the right of the top of the big detached block, and pulls through bulge/roofs up high.

This is Unknown climb #4 in Taos Rock.

A common anchor for the 3 bolted climbs is reached by this route, and a single rope rappel gets you down.

Protection

This climb has 3 bolts where you need them most, but you'll also want nuts, and a few cams (#0.4 camalot to #1 camalot). A couple of the placements are best if you use a long runner.

Photos

David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.10b/c
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
  5.10b/c
I placed a #1 cam at the top of the ledge and moved 8 feet right to the anchors. I don't thing a new set of anchors is necessary. Aug 1, 2017
Levi Wilner
Alamosa, CO
  5.10-
Levi Wilner   Alamosa, CO
  5.10-
Agreed. It should have a 2-bolt Anchor Oct 12, 2015
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10c/d
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.10c/d
The bolted anchor is off to climber's right a good 15 feet or so from the route. Its a good enough route that it could stand to have an anchor of its own. Aug 26, 2013