Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 454 total · 3/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details

Description

Start by scrambling up a little to the right of the top of the big detached block. Protect with nuts in the back, a move that turns out easier than it looks as ledges appear gains the first bolt. Angle up and left, passing a couple small bulges to reach a big roof with a bolt right at the lip. Figure out how to reach the giant exit chickenhead, and cruise on up to the chains.

This climb has fun moves on good rock, and bolts in the right places. Don't get scared off by the TP reputation for runouts; this one's well protected, and soft for the grade.

Location

This is the left of the 3 bolted lines on the south face of South Rock. It is the line that passes just to the right of the top of the big detached block, and pulls through bulge/roofs up high.

This is Unknown climb #4 in Taos Rock.

A common anchor for the 3 bolted climbs is reached by this route, and a single rope rappel gets you down.

Protection

This climb has 3 bolts where you need them most, but you'll also want nuts, and a few cams (#0.4 camalot to #1 camalot). A couple of the placements are best if you use a long runner.

Photos