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South Face Left

5.10-, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 18 votes
FA: Rich Strang and Luke Laeser, Fall 1996
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > S Rock
Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description

Start by scrambling up a little to the right of the top of the big detached block. Protect with nuts in the back, a move that turns out easier than it looks as ledges appear gains the first bolt. Angle up and left, passing a couple small bulges to reach a big roof with a bolt right at the lip. Figure out how to reach the giant exit chickenhead, and cruise on up to the chains.

This climb has fun moves on good rock, and bolts in the right places. Don't get scared off by the TP reputation for runouts; this one's well protected, and soft for the grade.

Location

This is the left of the 3 bolted lines on the south face of South Rock. It is the line that passes just to the right of the top of the big detached block, and pulls through bulge/roofs up high.

This is Unknown climb #4 in Taos Rock.

A common anchor for the 3 bolted climbs is reached by this route, and a single rope rappel gets you down.

Protection

This climb has 3 bolts where you need them most, but you'll also want nuts, and a few cams (#0.4 camalot to #1 camalot). A couple of the placements are best if you use a long runner.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Get on top of the block and continue up to the small roof. Follow the bolts up through the bulge section. Finish to the bolt anchors on the right.
[Hide Photo] Get on top of the block and continue up to the small roof. Follow the bolts up through the bulge section. Finish to the bolt anchors on the right.
Route from the base
[Hide Photo] Route from the base

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] The bolted anchor is off to climber's right a good 15 feet or so from the route. Its a good enough route that it could stand to have an anchor of its own. Aug 26, 2013
Levi Wilner
Alamosa, CO
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Agreed. It should have a 2-bolt Anchor Oct 12, 2015
David Baltz
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] I placed a #1 cam at the top of the ledge and moved 8 feet right to the anchors. I don't thing a new set of anchors is necessary. Aug 1, 2017
Laeserguns
Lost Almost, NM
[Hide Comment] FA by Rich Strang and Luke Laeser, Fall 1996. We never named theses three routes. We also didn’t place the anchor on the right one. Nov 24, 2021