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Routes in Y - North Side
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Beastie Crack T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Queso Grande T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Flat-footed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hard Start TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Herb's Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hessing Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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IDBI Wall T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Inside Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Mother T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Less-Hard Start T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lizard Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Middle Mother T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monster T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Nose, The TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Notch, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Open Book T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Open Book T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Porter Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ramp, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Mother T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rigid Deffacator T WI3 |
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Triple Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wisconsin T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 612 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Apr 5, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Left Mother is the leftmost of the 3 good crack climbs in the Mothers area of the Y.
Climb choss to a solid block/horn, angle left to a wedged block with good hand jams on either side. The steep crux is from here to the top and follows the leftmost crack, which is just a little larger than fingers, through an overhanging face. Fortunately, the face is highly featured with small horizontal ledges and pockets.
This climb is a good one for a trad leader near their limit, as the pro is good, the crux is short, and the fall is clean.
Climb choss to a solid block/horn, angle left to a wedged block with good hand jams on either side. The steep crux is from here to the top and follows the leftmost crack, which is just a little larger than fingers, through an overhanging face. Fortunately, the face is highly featured with small horizontal ledges and pockets.
This climb is a good one for a trad leader near their limit, as the pro is good, the crux is short, and the fall is clean.
Location
The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. It is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.
Protection
Rack up to a 2" cam; finger size cams are especially useful, nuts are good too. Don't bring micro nuts or microcams.
Save some stuff to build an anchor at the top, although there's a good block that you can sling with a long runner, or tie off trees with static line- always an iffy idea since many are dying.
Save some stuff to build an anchor at the top, although there's a good block that you can sling with a long runner, or tie off trees with static line- always an iffy idea since many are dying.
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