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Edge of a Dream

5.7, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 227 votes
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry - 1980
N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Ship Rock > Upper Tier
Warning Access Issue: All climbers must use existing rappel stations for descent. DetailsDrop down

Description

Edge of a Dream starts on the right side of the Amphitheater. Begin on any of the horizontal crack systems on the right hand wall. Work out toward the arete and pull around the corner. As you pull around the corner take a moment and soak in the view. Follow the crack to the anchor.

Protection

Trad. Two bolt belay w/ rap rings at the top

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top Rope Flash<br>
Age 10
[Hide Photo] Top Rope Flash Age 10
Craig Mohr opting for the traverse option out to the arete on Edge of a Dream. Photo by Aaron Murray.
[Hide Photo] Craig Mohr opting for the traverse option out to the arete on Edge of a Dream. Photo by Aaron Murray.
Nate dipping his toes into the amazing exposure.
[Hide Photo] Nate dipping his toes into the amazing exposure.
Leading Edge of a Dream
[Hide Photo] Leading Edge of a Dream
Johanna on the classic Edge of a Dream, Ship Rock, NC.
[Hide Photo] Johanna on the classic Edge of a Dream, Ship Rock, NC.
Per the namesake... Steven Zafirakis on the edge of a dream... Summer 2021
[Hide Photo] Per the namesake... Steven Zafirakis on the edge of a dream... Summer 2021
Places for cam placements were fantastic!
[Hide Photo] Places for cam placements were fantastic!
Midway in the traverse with Linn Cove Viaduct in the background.
[Hide Photo] Midway in the traverse with Linn Cove Viaduct in the background.
I can imagine there are many starts to this route but this is the route I took. Starts off on some small edges and feels around a 7
[Hide Photo] I can imagine there are many starts to this route but this is the route I took. Starts off on some small edges and feels around a 7
Climbing Edge of a Dream
[Hide Photo] Climbing Edge of a Dream
DB rapping down on a cold, foggy day in the mountains.
[Hide Photo] DB rapping down on a cold, foggy day in the mountains.
Extremely windy, cold, and fun day!
[Hide Photo] Extremely windy, cold, and fun day!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joey Wolfe
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This climb is a cheap thrill, get on it. I'd call the move around the arete harder than 5.6. You have to trust some thin feet for a move or two but you step around to easy terrain again and you have great gear. So enjoy the view and the exposure. Jan 6, 2009
Jeff Mekolites
Atlanta, GA
 
[Hide Comment] A short High Country version of High E. Best to start just left of the arete and go straight up. Jun 28, 2010
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Good Clean Fun and theres some climbing involved! Fantastic route with some tickling exposure! And of course what a wonderful photo opp!! Mar 16, 2012
Curtis Baird
Johnson City, TN
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This is a great route!!!!! The exposure is absolutly stunning! Make sure your mental game is solid before leading this. It is extremely exposed but well protected. Jan 7, 2015
Waylon Griffith
Banner Elk
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! lots of places for pro easy climbing all in all. May 12, 2017
J G
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty photo but hilariously overrated. Barely any climbing. Jul 3, 2019
Tim Stafford
Rock Hill, SC
 
[Hide Comment] Exposure is exhilarating! Great for a new trad leader, with amazing gear options. .5, .75 cams and a few nuts would take you to the top, but carry the whole rack for the full effect ;) Aug 19, 2019
[Hide Comment] An underrated, classic trad climb. The approach is a wonderful hike in itself, with great views of the national forest. Competitive climbers are likely to get bored, but beginners and intermediate climbers will love the exposure. Lots of different terrain for such a short climb. Sep 29, 2023