PRINT: Rock Climb Neanderthal, Southeastern Lowlands

Neanderthal

5.9, Trad, 105 ft (32 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.9 from 38 votes
FA: Lou Lutz and Bob Chambers (1957) FFA M. G. Block and Bob Dickson (1957)
Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lo… > Ralph Stover SP… > c. Neolithic Wall

Description

A popular classic.

P1 - Climb a crack into the obvious bombay chimney 25 feet up. Step left out of the chimney to a stance below the crux ceiling. Climb the ceiling at the notch up to the large ledge (Neolithic Ledge) to a bolted belay.

P2 - Climb the left-facing corner above the belay to the top.

This route was rated 5.9 at least through 1983. I think 5.9 will always be a realistic rating of this climb. Lou Lutz told me it was 5.9 the first time I ever climbed at Stover

Location

On the Neolithic Wall beneath an obvious bombay chimney near the right (east) edge of the ceiling 35 feet up.

Protection

Standard Rack (PG13)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Neanderthal on lead instagram.com/radam_gnawrot

right side of Neolithic Wall

Christian working on the crux of Neanderthal.

Crux of Neanderthal.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tscupp
Fruita, CO

This is such a fun line but can be very humbling the first time on it. I found it to be very beta intensive. Unique sequence for a 5.8. Enjoy! Jun 7, 2008

TylerGates

totally humbling! I've been pushing into the 5.11's out in Arizona and got shut down my first attempt through the notch. I was trying to muscle right through the middle. Next time around I breezed it..but still, humbling. And lots of fun. Enjoy those super sketchy "bolts" under the notch. Equalize and place a good cam at the bottom of the notch. Aug 12, 2010

Ian Colquhoun
New Jersey

Incredibly fun route. The bombay chimney was very cool and a little claustrophobic before popping out on the face directly below the crux overhang, which was really easy once I found the key holds on the right side out above the roof. I didn't use any holds to the left of it. Unlike some of the other routes at Stover, this route had zero polished holds.
Second pitch is crumbly muddy dirty junk imho, and not worth doing. Aug 18, 2014

Josh Gian

Are there anchors at the top to make it top rope-able? Oct 16, 2015

Kyle Ondy
Somerset, NJ

There are a set of chains that can be reached by the scramble behind the practice face. You may want to throw a directional in to control the swing though. Apr 1, 2016

gunkie X
Solebury, PA

5.8

One of the best half-dozen trad lead pitches at high rocks. Great gear, powerful moves, good rock. May 10, 2022

Gregory Fanarisios
Pennsylvania

This climb is very hard for a 5.8. It Requires some serious mental game and upper body strength to pull the roof. The second pitch is not great, very dirty and frequently hornets and wasps nesting on upper pitch. You can top rope both pitches as one, but it’s honestly better to lead Airy route on gear then scramble over to the P1 anchor for Neanderthal. Bring some static line for the anchors if you are setting up a TR. Sep 18, 2022