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Routes in c. Neolithic Wall

Bootbuster Ceilings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bootwear V4 6B
Neanderthal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 1 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Route 2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stopper Ceiling TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 105 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lou Lutz and Bob Chambers (1957) FFA M. G. Block and Bob Dickson (1957)
Page Views: 3,738 total, 32/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 4, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

A popular classic.

P1 - Climb a crack into the obvious bombay chimney 25 feet up. Step left out of the chimney to a stance below the crux ceiling. Climb the ceiling at the notch up to the large ledge (Neolithic Ledge) to a bolted belay.

P2 - Climb the left-facing corner above the belay to the top.

Location

On the Neolithic Wall beneath an obvious bombay chimney near the right (east) edge of the ceiling 35 feet up.

Protection

Standard Rack (PG13)

Photos

Kyle Ondy
Somerset, NJ
Kyle Ondy   Somerset, NJ
There are a set of chains that can be reached by the scramble behind the practice face. You may want to throw a directional in to control the swing though. Apr 1, 2016
Are there anchors at the top to make it top rope-able? Oct 16, 2015
Ian Colquhoun
New Jersey
 
Ian Colquhoun   New Jersey
 
Incredibly fun route. The bombay chimney was very cool and a little claustrophobic before popping out on the face directly below the crux overhang, which was really easy once I found the key holds on the right side out above the roof. I didn't use any holds to the left of it. Unlike some of the other routes at Stover, this route had zero polished holds.
Second pitch is crumbly muddy dirty junk imho, and not worth doing. Aug 18, 2014
TylerGates
Olympia, WA
TylerGates   Olympia, WA
totally humbling! I've been pushing into the 5.11's out in Arizona and got shut down my first attempt through the notch. I was trying to muscle right through the middle. Next time around I breezed it..but still, humbling. And lots of fun. Enjoy those super sketchy "bolts" under the notch. Equalize and place a good cam at the bottom of the notch. Aug 12, 2010
tscupp
Englewood, CO
tscupp   Englewood, CO
This is such a fun line but can be very humbling the first time on it. I found it to be very beta intensive. Unique sequence for a 5.8. Enjoy! Jun 7, 2008