Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlette & Eric Johnson 1989
Page Views: 2,309 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dana Prosser on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This unique line provides a good adventure up a climbable arch, and fun rappel. Do it for the uncommon positioning, not quality of rock climbing.
P1- Make awkward move up loose handcrack. Continue up sandy crack placing gear when possible to 2 bolt anchor (one bolt is missing hanger- supplement with cam)- 60 ft
P2- Continue up sandy, low angle crack until lieback is encountered. Some large blocks await you at the top, so tread lightly. Try to find some decent gear, than head right on face to 2 bolts leading to anchor. My partner continued up crack above blocks, placed gear, and downclimbed to bolts (Seemed a little safer).-90 ft
We rapped from here, but book mentioned 3rd pitch (did not look too inviting). Anchor on top on P2 is set-up for easy pull after free-hanging rap from arch.

Location

Jug handle arch is located on the northwest corner of Long canyon, 15 miles down Potash road from U.S. Hwy 191. A road sign clearly marks the spot. Scramble up to the start L of the route.

Protection

Standard rack-few extra finger sized cams useful. 2 ropes for rappel.

Photos