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Routes in Wall Street South

Handle with Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Say Your Prayers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Skinwalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spur of the Moment Tower, The Loveridge T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Uno Mo-mo's T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlette & Eric Johnson 1989
Page Views: 1,610 total, 14/month
Shared By: Dana Prosser on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This unique line provides a good adventure up a climbable arch, and fun rappel. Do it for the uncommon positioning, not quality of rock climbing.
P1- Make awkward move up loose handcrack. Continue up sandy crack placing gear when possible to 2 bolt anchor (one bolt is missing hanger- supplement with cam)- 60 ft
P2- Continue up sandy, low angle crack until lieback is encountered. Some large blocks await you at the top, so tread lightly. Try to find some decent gear, than head right on face to 2 bolts leading to anchor. My partner continued up crack above blocks, placed gear, and downclimbed to bolts (Seemed a little safer).-90 ft
We rapped from here, but book mentioned 3rd pitch (did not look too inviting). Anchor on top on P2 is set-up for easy pull after free-hanging rap from arch.

Location

Jug handle arch is located on the northwest corner of Long canyon, 15 miles down Potash road from U.S. Hwy 191. A road sign clearly marks the spot. Scramble up to the start L of the route.

Protection

Standard rack-few extra finger sized cams useful. 2 ropes for rappel.
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.9+ PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.9+ PG13
great route. we did it in one pitch. way cleaner than it looks. extra for sure on the small stuff. a rack of aliens would be sweet. SOLID 5.9! or pushing easy 10a. sustained. mike pulled a great lead. the rap off put us on a bench right next to bugs on the jug. also harder than 5.8. you will already have the small stuff with you for that. a couple extra green, red, and a #4 camalot. for that. then we rapped to the ground from those anchors. Oct 23, 2011
I agree with Erik that it is a little stiffer than 5.8. If leading 5.8 is your limit, then you need to strongly assess whether or not to do this route. The rock was better than I thought and the climbing more sustained. Pheneomenal route and it beat the heck out of being with the crowds at Potash. Oct 22, 2011
Eric Odenthal
  5.9+
Eric Odenthal  
  5.9+
this route to the first rappel anchor can be done in one 160' pitch. bring 3 sets of finger sizes to #3 camalot, especially blue tcu's. thought the crux was sustained and the pro was chossy. harder than 5.8 I thought. I continued past the rap anchor to continue up the arch. In the book it says 5.4 X... I tried, checked it out and IT'S SKETCH. down from the rap anchors. Oct 25, 2008