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Routes in Rest Area

Boss Moss T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cabbage Patch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kick Ass T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mosstique S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mostake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Spire S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swing Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Tradass T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Darren Knezek, Steve Burkholder
Page Views: 1,160 total, 10/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Mar 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Red Spire takes you along the upper part of the ridge to the far right of red slab. This is a great moderate alternative route for when the Red Slab route is crowded with climbers. Start the route by scrambling up a bit of 4th class to clip a bolt above your head. Make the crux move by bypassing a small roof by going to the right. A bit of moss here adds a little to the difficultly. Continue up the ridge on face holds past eight more bolts until you reach a great double chain belay anchor with a platform behind it.

This would not make a good top rope, but is a fine beginning lead.

Location

Red Spire is located to the far right of the grassy area above Red Slab. Approach by following the base of Red Slab and then climbing the Ed and Terry approach route with the cable. Above the cable look up and to your right for a bolt above a blocky section that leads to the ridge.
Descent may be done by rapping with a 70M or walking off down the Scenic Turnout gully.

Protection

Nine bolts and double chain anchors. You may wish to anchor the belayer with gear if you are worried about the climbing before the first bolt. A slip before that bolt would send you and your partner on a long painful ride.

Photos

A bit weird. But I agree that it makes a good beginners lead. You finish at a tower like feature that you can't really see until you are there. Jan 1, 2009
FA: Darren Knezek, Steve Burkholder. Oct 28, 2008