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Routes in Day Canyon Cragging Routes

Aerobicide T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Android Waffle Hot Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Another Fine Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bee Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Black Widow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brush Painted Datsun T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Christine's Way Buff Sabb T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Concepcion T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Finger Bandit T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
In the Bushes V0+ 4+
Kentucky Brown Water T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Kiss of the Spider Women T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pocket Rocket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thicker than Water T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown Crack Right of "Working Class Hero" T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What Momma Don't Know T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Working Class Hero T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,636 total, 14/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Mar 30, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a finger/thin hands crack about 30' right of Working Class Hero and is obvious from that route.
It has some cruxy moves going past a slight bulge and is good finger locks much of the way. Look for small edges to the right and left. The route ends on a platform with some loose rubble (careful!).

There is a 2nd pitch OW called Thicker than Water, which I haven't climbed.

Location

This is the thin hands crack leading to the anchor about 30' right of Working Class Hero. The anchor is obviously visible from Working Class Hero.

Protection

About 2 cams each from #0.5 camalot to #2 camalot.
2 bolt anchor at the top. 1 rope gets you up, and down.

Photos

michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
The climb is 0.75 camalots for about the first half and then widens. The High on Moab book says it is 5.9. I thought it was 5.11- May 29, 2015
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
The second pitch is Thicker Than Water - a super rad offwidth - goes at 10+ or so. May 3, 2014
Cho
Cho  
Anyone have any info on the second pitch of this thing? In the first picture, it’s the crack in the left facing corner that starts on the platform above the 10+. IIRC, looked wide at the start and then narrowed to fists maybe a third of the way up; slings maybe 70 feet up. It looked above my pay grade, so I didn’t give it a go, but may have to try it this year. Apr 17, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun, fun route! Great fingers for my fat hands. Marginal footholds are integral to the crux. Jul 16, 2012
NIVEK
Boulder CO
NIVEK   Boulder CO
Excellent route. The grade will depend on your finger/hand size. I think 10+/11- is fair. Watch out for the loose stuff at the top. Nov 2, 2010