PRINT: Rock Climb Pancho's Happy Bottom Riding Club, Estes Park Valley

Pancho's Happy Bottom Riding Club

5.8 R, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
FA: AL and CJ Simons
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Beige Tube Area… > 60 Degree Slabs

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Access Issue: CLOSED - Private Property Details

This property lies on private property owned by Sylvan Dale Ranch.

It is confirmed by looking at Larimer County Land Information Locator ( maps.larimer.org/lil/?xCent…)

Sylvan Dale Ranch confirmed that they do not want people climbing on their land for liability reasons and safety reasons - they have a horse trail above the cliffs on both sides of the canyon and expressed the worry of a climber topping out and spooking one of their horses while guests of the ranch are on a horse ride.

These climbs lie on private property, and are not open to the public. Please do not climb here.

Description

The crux is 30 feet off the ground and is protected by 2nd bolt. Pull the short, vertical section (8+) or go up and right at first bolt and the entire climb then goes at 5.5 runout. If you want an easy day slabbin' up solid granite with an abundance of holds, this is a fun climb.

Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.

Location

Park 0.1-0.2 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube at the paved parking on the north side of the road. Walk west for 100 yards, and pick a bushwhack path up the steep, loose, road cut to the base of a big, 60 degree slab.

This route starts 30 yards uphill and west from a big pine tree near the right end of an up-left slanting grass/rock shelf. Look for the first two bolts 20 and 30 feet up at the lip.

Protection

Pitch one, 4 bolts. Pitch two, 2 bolts. You may be able to wiggle in a nut or cam here and there, but the cruxes are well-protected. There are bolted belays at 100 feet and 180 feet. The route and rap can be done with a single long rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

CJ on the 2nd pitch.

2nd pitch of pancho's.

Topo for Pancho's and Calico as seen from US Highway 34.