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Routes in 60 Degree Slabs

Calico Sling, The T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Pancho's Happy Bottom Riding Club S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: AL and CJ Simons
Page Views: 881 total · 7/month
Shared By: allen simons on Mar 30, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: CLOSED - Private Property Details

Description

The crux is 30 feet off the ground and is protected by 2nd bolt. Pull the short, vertical section (8+) or go up and right at first bolt and the entire climb then goes at 5.5 runout. If you want an easy day slabbin' up solid granite with an abundance of holds, this is a fun climb.

Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.

Location

Park 0.1-0.2 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube at the paved parking on the north side of the road. Walk west for 100 yards, and pick a bushwhack path up the steep, loose, road cut to the base of a big, 60 degree slab.

This route starts 30 yards uphill and west from a big pine tree near the right end of an up-left slanting grass/rock shelf. Look for the first two bolts 20 and 30 feet up at the lip.

Protection

Pitch one, 4 bolts. Pitch two, 2 bolts. You may be able to wiggle in a nut or cam here and there, but the cruxes are well-protected. There are bolted belays at 100 feet and 180 feet. The route and rap can be done with a single long rope.

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