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Magali's Arete

5.7, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 25 votes
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (March 2008)
California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Fortress > Central Gully
Warning Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Climbs the arete on the right side of the block that is also home to Rational Expectations. This route is longer and significantly more difficult than Rational Expectations.

Location

Approach and descend the same as for Rational Expectations.

Blue In Green now provides convenient access to the base of this route.

Protection

5 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), 2 bolt anchor with chains. 2" piece recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kelly "pink pointing" "Magali's" after I led it and we pulled the rope for Kelly to lead. Frank on Lunch Ledge providing solid belaying and helpful comments like "good job Kelly!".
[Hide Photo] Kelly "pink pointing" "Magali's" after I led it and we pulled the rope for Kelly to lead. Frank on Lunch Ledge providing solid belaying and helpful comments like "good job Kelly!".
Romain Wacziarg climbs Magali's Arete during the route's first ascent.
[Hide Photo] Romain Wacziarg climbs Magali's Arete during the route's first ascent.
On Magali's Arete and cruising.
[Hide Photo] On Magali's Arete and cruising.
The initial slab to get onto Magali's Arete.
[Hide Photo] The initial slab to get onto Magali's Arete.
Kelly enjoying the pitch.
[Hide Photo] Kelly enjoying the pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Knight
Sedona
  5.8
[Hide Comment] A short, fun route. Gave it 2 stars. We choose to climb "Magali's" instead of the left route ("Rational Expectations") since it looked a bit more challenging and more interesting. Earlier the same day I previously led PIH (5.9) and thought "Magali's" would be a walk in the park. However, I found "Magali's" to be more mentally engaging than PIH. I also think the rating is more like 5.8 instead of 5.7. Maybe some holds broke off? Hard to know. Sandstone evolves a bit with use. Be careful! There is a loose plate on the left side of the arete (about 2/3 of the way up) that flexes with even a gentle pull. I didn't feel like I need the 2" piece recommended in the description but you can certainly supplement with gear if you feel you need it.

Note - There's a lot of loose blocks in and near the climb. Some are small and some are HUGE. Be super careful while climbing and rapping the route. Jan 19, 2011