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Routes in Little Amphitheater

Buzzard Breath TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Rotten Scoundrel TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Erocktica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Erocktica (Left Start) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grandpa's Belay TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
KMA TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
KMF-KISS MY FEET TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outhouse TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Break TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Place Your Bet TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,813 total, 15/month
Shared By: EricD on Mar 28, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

The route can wander. Your reach may determine whether you choose the left or right of the arete (or a combination of both). The top is where you'll make to make the toughest decision.

Location

This route is the arete on the right of the chimney/dihedral.

Protection

top-rope from bolts

Photos

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8-
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.8-
I believe the 5.6 for this route is incorrect. It is rare to see overhangs (even juggy ones) in the 5.6 rating, and this route has two of them on the rope line. The top bulge requires good foot placement and decent enough strength to use the side-pulls.

Rating quibbles aside, this route is really fun. Each part of the rock offers a different kind of challenge, and is great for introducing beginners to the different types of holds/climbing they might encounter. The top area even has an easy-out to the arete on the left. Jun 4, 2015
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.8-
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.8-
Place Your Bet is a great route and probably my favorite trad route at Pilot thus far. As previously mentioned, the old Kelly book grades this at 5.6. If you stay to the true line it is more like 5.8. Sections of finger crack, face, roof, and flake climbing give this route some diverse movement and keeps things interesting. You should be comfortable at the grade if you want to rack up for this climb. Emphasis on small cams and stoppers. Jan 2, 2014
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
Great TR. Anchor placement is good for doing some hard variations. Found a few moves in the 5.10 range. Apr 8, 2012
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
I thought this line was really fun and I would still grade it 5.6.

I felt like if one followed the correct line, this route didn't feel any harder than Howdy Dude ( mountainproject.com/v/howdy…) or the last pitch of the Daddy ( mountainproject.com/v/the-d…), which both get a 5.6 rating in the guidebooks.

I think all of those routes are more technical and require skills at reading the line, body position, correct placement of hands on holds, and correct usage of those holds. All of those skills I would expect a non-beginner 5.6 climber to have. Sep 26, 2011
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
Rmsyll   Winston-Salem, NC
Kelley's book did list this as 5.6 and that is wrong. The anchors hang the left part of the face, and that line is the common climb, up a shallow crack in a shallow roof, trending left toward a good ledge on the arete to skip the upper overhang. Pulling that using the left-hand flake is quite strenuous and beyond a 5.7 climber. Normally, climbers cross the arete to finish on the left side to the anchor ledge.

LL Feb 20, 2011
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
Maybe I went the wrong way, but TRing this one felt harder than leading Grandpa's Belay. Oct 18, 2008