Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Constant Gardener

5.12b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 69 votes
FA: Roger Molina, M. Samet, R. Garibotti
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Second Tier > Tarot Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

This is the route between the Manganese Direct and The Devil, up the right margin of the Earth Angel headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of The Devil, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with The Devil), then trends left into the hanging corner. Originally, there was a crux getting around the arete (going left), but the more logical sequence goes right up the nice laybacks in the corner then moves back left higher at your convenience. Mark Rolofson was nice enough to put the hanger back on the original bolt I'd drilled out right, so that you can go either way through this section.

Above the crux, you can stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block, or bear-hug along the right arete. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, which is probably much cleaner now than it was in 2007.

Location

This is ten feet left of The Devil, Tarot Wall.

Protection

Eight or 9 [or 10] bolts to double-bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting the crux.
[Hide Photo] Starting the crux.
Nearing the top.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top.
Closing in on the anchor!  Photo by Taylor Roy.
[Hide Photo] Closing in on the anchor! Photo by Taylor Roy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bapgar 1
Out of the Loop
[Hide Comment] Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up.
BA May 4, 2008
Joe Collins
Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-. May 8, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
 
[Hide Comment] The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon.

But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux.

And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you brought extra arms. Jun 19, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I guess I can't give myself the true onsight, since I climbed more of the arete on the top as opposed to the lieback crack which is apparently what was intended. The bottom climbing was delicate, and pulling the roof was pretty stout. Overall, a good route, not as good as its neighbors The Devil or Fapanese Direct. The top is definitely a bit contrived given that you can stay slightly right on the arete and make the whole upper half feel pretty casual. Good route though and worth getting on.... Sep 4, 2012
Pete Beyel
Tennessee
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Wonderful line. Agree with the above posters that the traverse at bolt 5 is the crux. Aug 1, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable movement albeit slightly contrived. The crux is definitely between 4th and 5th bolts. I could not figure out a way to NOT use the crack out to the right and then traverse back in. Either way, it felt solid 5.12b. It's a shame the upper arete is slightly contrived. Still, a great route and worthy of doing! May 29, 2018
Josh LaMar
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] You can use the crack out right for a finger lock at the beginning, but you should not continue up that crack (obviously off route and probably a bad fall). Instead, use the small crimps above the roof to gain the left crack sidepull. There are very insecure feet (which is the crux for me). This will position you a little higher on the face to a nub hold. Then you can start to move left for more delicate moves. Great route! I'll be back for the send. Aug 29, 2018
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Cleaner 'biners (including that sticky auto-locker) replaced with nice big lowering hooks on 4/27/19 courtesy of the ASCA. Consider donating to the ASCA today! safeclimbing.org/help.htm Apr 27, 2019
Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] According to my notes from 2008 /2009, this climb has 10 protection bolts, not 9. It is one of the best routes on the crag with a very cool crux going over the roof. Climbing the crux to the right, using the crack on The Devil drops the grade. It always seemed obvious to me to pull the roof near the bolts rather than 4-5 ft. off to the side. Josh Lamar's description of the crux is very accurate. Jul 29, 2019
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Sort of a 1 move wonder, but the crux felt harder than 12b to me. It's 10+ slab to the roof, then what felt like insecure V4/V5 at the roof, then fun, technical 11c to the anchor. Another commenter referred to the roof as "11-", so I'm wondering if a hold broke. Aug 26, 2019
Tim Watts
Quenza, Corsica
[Hide Comment] A great route that offers a little of everything - slab, roof to boulder prob, crimpin', stemmin' and crack climbin', and fairly sustained. Highly recommend it. Oct 14, 2019
Andy Bandos
CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I think getting established over the roof is just as hard as the roof move on Manganese.

Fun, varied route. The only flaw is it's possible to avoid some fun, techy moves by the last few bolts by staying in the mossy dihedral. Oct 3, 2021