Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Roger Molina, M. Samet, R. Garibotti
Page Views: 4,090 total · 31/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Mar 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

41 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is the route between the Fapanese Direct and The Devil, up the right margin of the Earth Angel headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of The Devil, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with The Devil), then trends left into the hanging corner. Originally, there was a crux getting around the arete (going left), but the more logical sequence goes right up the nice laybacks in the corner then moves back left higher at your convenience. Mark Rolofson was nice enough to put the hanger back on the original bolt I'd drilled out right, so that you can go either way through this section.

Above the crux, you can stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block, or bear-hug along the right arete. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, which is probably much cleaner now than it was in 2007.


This is ten feet left of The Devil, Tarot Wall.


Eight or 9 bolts to double-bolt anchors.


Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up.
BA May 4, 2008
Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-. May 8, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon.

But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux.

And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you brought extra arms. Jun 19, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
I guess I can't give myself the true onsight, since I climbed more of the arete on the top as opposed to the lieback crack which is apparently what was intended. The bottom climbing was delicate, and pulling the roof was pretty stout. Overall, a good route, not as good as its neighbors The Devil or Fapanese Direct. The top is definitely a bit contrived given that you can stay slightly right on the arete and make the whole upper half feel pretty casual. Good route though and worth getting on.... Sep 4, 2012
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
Wonderful line. Agree with the above posters that the traverse at bolt 5 is the crux. Aug 1, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Enjoyable movement albeit slightly contrived. The crux is definitely between 4th and 5th bolts. I could not figure out a way to NOT use the crack out to the right and then traverse back in. Either way, it felt solid 5.12b. It's a shame the upper arete is slightly contrived. Still, a great route and worthy of doing! May 29, 2018
Josh LaMar
Boulder, CO
Josh LaMar   Boulder, CO
You can use the crack out right for a finger lock at the beginning, but you should not continue up that crack (obviously off route and probably a bad fall). Instead, use the small crimps above the roof to gain the left crack sidepull. There are very insecure feet (which is the crux for me). This will position you a little higher on the face to a nub hold. Then you can start to move left for more delicate moves. Great route! I'll be back for the send. Aug 29, 2018