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Checkerboard

V8, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 4 from 82 votes
FA: Chris Sharma
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Buttermilk Country > Checkerboard Area > Checkerboard Boulder

Description

Start at a prominent right-facing incut flake (not the jug rail just to the right) a bit left of center on the tall, slightly overhanging NW face of the 'Checkerboard Boulder'. Climb up and right to an exciting last move high off the deck. An excellent problem!

Location

This climb is located on the boulder farthest right in this area. This boulder also happens to be the largest in the area, so finding it should not be difficult.

Protection

Four or more pads would be ideal. The sloping rock under the left part of this problem has leg-breaking potential.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Katie Lawler Checkerboard
[Hide Photo] Katie Lawler Checkerboard
butt shot
[Hide Photo] butt shot
Ryan Mah latching the victory hold before the jug haul.
[Hide Photo] Ryan Mah latching the victory hold before the jug haul.
The checkerboard
[Hide Photo] The checkerboard
Checkerboard
[Hide Photo] Checkerboard
Match the right hand and one more move up and right before the big move back up and left. Photo by Greg Smith
[Hide Photo] Match the right hand and one more move up and right before the big move back up and left. Photo by Greg Smith
Sending 'The Checkerboard'<br>
<br>
Ph. Elizabeth Grant
[Hide Photo] Sending 'The Checkerboard' Ph. Elizabeth Grant
The checkerboard
[Hide Photo] The checkerboard

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Snyder
CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] Given V8 but felt like soft V7 to me. Still - rad rad rad! Mar 26, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] I didn't find this to be as dangerous as many people make it out to be. The first moves are quite easy, and the crux at the end is easily protected by a few pads and a good spotter. Mar 31, 2008
[Hide Comment] Checkerboard on Youtube -

youtube.com/watch?v=6sqbM4X… Dec 1, 2009
Andy L
 
cbtacy
  V8 R
[Hide Comment] Total classic.

I understand that many don't understand why this would be dangerous - but there have been at least 2 broken legs (that I know of) from falls off this rig.

Crux is a bit harder if you're short. Aug 11, 2013
Tim Iwako
Davis, CA
  V7-8
[Hide Comment] I'm short (5'1) and no move on this climb felt harder than V7 but it was pretty pumpy! Nevertheless, a great climb! Sep 16, 2017
Where's Walden
  V7-8 R
[Hide Comment] Truly one of the best.

R rating is if and only if you barn door off the final moves sending yourself into the embedded rock. Spot your landing! Jan 6, 2018
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  V7
[Hide Comment] On the easier side for the grade, but stellar nonetheless. The landing is fine with one spotter on the lump,. Nov 15, 2018
Kyle Love
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] This one was hyped up for us, but it turned out to be all people said and more.

youtube.com/watch?v=E8ypFC3…

Enjoy! Aug 5, 2019
Celeste Berg
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] World-class climb. For the shorter... I'm 5'4"+0"
youtu.be/gf4JY73hC6o Jan 5, 2021