Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Chris Sharma
Page Views: 5,198 total · 40/month
Shared By: Ben Snyder on Mar 26, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start at a prominant incut flake (not the jug rail just to the right) a bit left of center on the tall, slightly overhanging NW face of the 'Checkerboard Boulder'. Climb up and right to an exciting last move high off the deck. An excellent problem!

Location

This climb is located on the boulder farthest right in this area. This boulder also happens to be the largest in the area, so finding it should not be difficult.

Protection

Four or more pads would be ideal. The sloping rock under the left part of this problem has leg-breaking potential.

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Photos

Ryan Mah latching the victory hold before the jug haul.
Ryan Mah latching the victory hold before the j…
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The crux throw on Checkerboard
The crux throw on Checkerboard
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Katie Lawler Checkerboard
Katie Lawler Checkerboard
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Checkerboard
Checkerboard
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Checkerboard
Checkerboard
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Checkerboard
Checkerboard
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Match the right hand and one more move up and right before the big move back up and left. Photo by Greg Smith
Match the right hand and one more move up and r…
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The checkerboard
The checkerboard
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The checkerboard
The checkerboard
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Sending 'The Checkerboard'<br> <br> Ph. Elizabeth Grant
Sending 'The Checkerboard' Ph. Elizabeth Grant
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10 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Ben Snyder
CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
  V7-8
Ben Snyder   CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
  V7-8
Given V8 but felt like soft V7 to me. Still - rad rad rad! Mar 26, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  V7-8
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  V7-8
I didn't find this to be as dangerous as many people make it out to be. The first moves are quite easy, and the crux at the end is easily protected by a few pads and a good spotter. Mar 31, 2008
C Miller
CA
C Miller   CA  
Checkerboard on Youtube -

youtube.com/watch?v=6sqbM4X… Dec 1, 2009
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
youtube.com/watch?v=QusfdxR… Apr 23, 2010
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
youtube.com/watch?v=oGGdi6o… Jun 14, 2012
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  V7-8
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  V7-8
The beta that Andy uses is the preferred beta for me - i.e. going to the intermediate but slightly higher crimp instead of the massive iron cross move to the jug. Either way, this line is a stunner. The shorter variation (i.e. not starting too far to the left) is probably more just standard V7. I really ought to go back and finish it from the far left jug... Mar 9, 2013
cbtacy
  V8 R
cbtacy  
  V8 R
Total classic.

I understand that many don't understand why this would be dangerous - but there have been at least 2 broken legs (that I know of) from falls off this rig.

Crux is a bit harder if you're short. Aug 11, 2013
Tim Iwako
Davis, CA
  V7-8
Tim Iwako   Davis, CA
  V7-8
I'm short (5'1) and no move on this climb felt harder than V7 but it was pretty pumpy! Nevertheless, a great climb! Sep 16, 2017
Where's Walden
  V7-8 R
Where's Walden  
  V7-8 R
Truly one of the best.

R rating is if and only if you barn door off the final moves sending yourself into the embedded rock. Spot your landing! Jan 6, 2018
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  V7
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  V7
On the easier side for the grade, but stellar nonetheless. The landing is fine with one spotter on the lump,. Nov 15, 2018