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Altered State
5.10+,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 37
votes
FA: Mclaughlin, Schuler
Colorado
> S Platte
> W Creek
> Thunder Ridge
> Alligator Lounge
Access Issue: Road & nearby private property & COVID-19 Closure - now open
Details
As of Nov. 6, 2020: per Johanna Jones: COVID-19 update: Thunder Ridge is open, although there are two considerations: 1) The landowners have asked climbers not to use their private road to enter Thunder Ridge. 2) As of July 1, 2020, all persons 18 and older must possess a valid Colorado HUNTING or FISHING LICENSE to access Colorado Parks and Wildlife land. THIS IS WHERE YOU PARK ON THIS LAND.
#2 is a little tricky considering the shoulder and the crag is on United State Forest Service land (Free), while the PARKING is on CPW land.
Info can be found here: pikespeakclimbersalliance.o… As of April 5th, the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance announced that Thunder Ridge is CURRENTLY CLOSED due to COVID-19. Please respect this closure, and check in with PPCA on updates as COVID-19 stay at home orders and impacts reduce over the coming months.
Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.
Description
Climb up and left to an undercling. Move up into a crack. This was originally ascended on gear. The two bolts were added later by the first ascentionists.
Protection
Pro to 2", anchors.
[Hide Photo] Kevin Mclaughlin entering the jug haul to the top.
CR, CO
Denver, CO
Dan Mannix Sep 6, 2016
Golden, CO
Monument, Co.
So Dan, where do you think the first bolt should be? I bet if a majority of folks thought the bolt should be moved down 12" or whatever Kevin would be open to relocating it (maybe). No need to be a dick about it.
The problem is you either have to clip it low out of the undercling or commit to the face and stand up on the rounded footer. I feel the crux is the next section getting into the crack, and then the bolt might be too low for those hard moves. Sep 6, 2016
PS. I owe you a beer Monty--don't be spitting out precious liquids on my account. Sep 7, 2016
Monument, Co.
OK, so I've been at it for 36 years. Nobody gives a shit.
"A dangerous bolted climb is a misnomer and a sign of poor route design."
I'd describe it as a 75' long, slightly spicy TRAD route with two bolts in no way to be confused with a safely bolted sport route. Not a single person that has commented/ticked the route on MP gives it an R or even a PG-13 rating. To say that it's a dangerous bolted climb is way off the mark, IMO.
You didn't answer my question, where would you have placed the bolt? If you put it in a clipping position from the undercling, you have what, 2 or 3 perfectly placed bomber cams at your waist. To put it a bit higher means committing to the sloper foothold and putting yourself "at some risk" (in your own words). We made a judgment call and did what we felt worked best.
Just a tidbit on the history of the route: Kevin lead the damn thing with no bolts at all originally (albeit following a different line, traversing left at the undercling & up through the seam). Me, my wife, and another partner were at the bottom belaying and chanting in unison.... Drill a bolt! Drill a bolt! Drill a bolt!
He wouldn't have any of it and continued to the top. We added the 2 bolts a few weeks later after I talked him into it. Sep 7, 2016
I meant no harm in my criticism. It just felt like a great route (actually 2 routes) were being made more dangerous than they needed to be by judiciously placing the bolt within reach - 18" lower - one can address the next moves. The swinging fall with pro well below your feet is not a pretty sight. I understand that you guys put up these routes with your homegrown ethics, and I respect that, but as future climbers explore the area you have developed, have some heart. They must survive the moderates to get to your testpieces.
Dan Mannix Sep 7, 2016
Monument, Co.
Cheers. Sep 8, 2016
Evergreen, CO
Golden, CO
Colorado springs
Colorado Springs
Boulder CO