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Routes in Hoodgie Wall

Ankles Away S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Block TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face Hueco TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escuche Vaca Heard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Holy Shiite, Muslim! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoodgie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leonosphere S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NorthEast Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jackie Carroll, Michael Strassman
Page Views: 1,324 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Excellent, steep face climbing at a moderate grade. NOT a sport route--only 4 bolts protect the route.

Contributor's note: I have NOT led this route. It is possible to traverse right from the anchor atop Ankles Away (easy 5th class) in order to set up a top-rope. Don't miss this high quality route!

Location

The right side of Hoodgie Wall (look for a bolt about 25 feet up). See photo

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

hikingdrew
Los Angeles, CA
 
hikingdrew   Los Angeles, CA
 
Bolts are painted and tricky to see. First bolt is 20' up and there is a 20' runout between the last bolt and the anchors. A horizontal crack can take a #1 or so to protect the last 10'.. Nov 22, 2016
JC w KC redux  
5.7
People that are calling this 6 are either using the JTree scale or comparing it to the Reg Rte - which is an old school 6. Neither route is 6 compared to other 6's and 7's in the Hills. I have onsighted nearly every 6 and 7 in the Marty Lewis book. Jun 29, 2014
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.6 PG13
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.6 PG13
one of my favorite climbs in the hills. the bolt spacing is traditional, but the climbing is easy. great climb for focusing on your mental game. Jan 26, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6 PG13
More character than the better protected routes to the left due to its longer run-outs,and IMHO better because of it. Just lead it or leave it alone. Mar 17, 2013
Dave- be careful with "to and from" you guys are both describing the same place, only Mathew described how to TR the 5.6 from the anchor of the sport bolted climb to its left. Apr 26, 2012
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.7
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.7
You mean "traverse left" to get to the anchor of Ankles Away.

Not a bad route. May 14, 2008
Bruce Willey
Bishop, CA
Bruce Willey   Bishop, CA
Nice route and spicy for the belayer, especially with a rattlesnake crawling out of the rope bag. Apr 29, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun easy route. A little run getting to the first bolt, but it's super easy. Apr 14, 2008